Thread: New Set of Naniwa Hones with questions

Hello all,

Just recieved my set of Naniwa Hones ... they look great! I got he DMT325 then the Naniwa 1000/5000/8000/12000.... No instruction manual and if there were it would probably be in Japanese...

So is there any preparation of these stones required? I've read somewhere that nortons need to be lapped or something before use... These stone sure look like they don't require anything.. but I thought I'd ask...

Also I read somewhere that the Naniwa's don't need to be soaked... that spraying them prior to use is sufficient... is that also true?

After use.. what is the best way to clean them before putting them away?

Last... I've read all the Wiki... watched lynn's DVD.... which I can't seem to find right now... and I'm trying to remember a good video for learning how to set the bevel... any suggestions beside Lynn's?? video...

tnx for your help.... excited to try them out today.... will probably try a touch up first before trying to set a bevel on freshly restored...

Hve the pyramid written down... soon to memorize...

maq

Originally Posted by Maq

Hello all,

Just recieved my set of Naniwa Hones ... they look great! I got he DMT325 then the Naniwa 1000/5000/8000/12000.... No instruction manual and if there were it would probably be in Japanese...

So is there any preparation of these stones required? I've read somewhere that nortons need to be lapped or something before use... These stone sure look like they don't require anything.. but I thought I'd ask...

Also I read somewhere that the Naniwa's don't need to be soaked... that spraying them prior to use is sufficient... is that also true?

After use.. what is the best way to clean them before putting them away?

Last... I've read all the Wiki... watched lynn's DVD.... which I can't seem to find right now... and I'm trying to remember a good video for learning how to set the bevel... any suggestions beside Lynn's?? video...

tnx for your help.... excited to try them out today.... will probably try a touch up first before trying to set a bevel on freshly restored...

Hve the pyramid written down... soon to memorize...

maq

I don't think it would hurt to lap them. I have the 1k and 12k from SRD and recall that they needed a slight lapping upon receiving. Lynn or one of the gurus can verify if that's with all hones or if I was just being overly cautious.

They don't need to be soaked. I keep a spray bottle nearby -- usually the first few spritzes will get soaked up, but after that the water will remain on the hone. I usually do my razors in batches so I'll rub all my hones on the D8C to clean and flatten them. If they look dirty during the process and I don't think it's necessary to use the D8C, I'll just wipe it off with my fingers under running water.

EDIT: RazorCon '09 videos are on YouTube, and a thread with links is here:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...ng-videos.html

I'm still new to honing so I hesitate to give advice, but I found that the best source of information was the wiki. Be patient setting your bevel and make sure it will pop hair at various points along the edge before going to higher grits. Use a magic marker to color your edge first, then do a few strokes (3-4) on the hone and view the edge to see where contact is being made. That will show you what sort of strokes to use to make sure you get things even. And listen to whatever the honemeisters say.

Yes they need to be lapped, doesn't matter if they are flat (they won't be) there seems to be almost a coating on the Naniwas that needs to be lapped off there

I have always recommended this routine, try it if ya want it worked for me, and several others that have done it..

Lap the stones, let them dry, lap the stones, let them dry, Lap the stones using a pencil grid, let them dry.... Hone some razors, then lap one last time using a grid, that should do the trick...


Discloser: I hone a lot of razors, I do not want to hone a batch, only to find out the the stones were not ready, I guess you could do it different if you were honing one razor at a time... When I did mine they did not feel "right" until after the 3rd lapping session

I always lap a pencil grid off of a new stone under running water in the kitchen sink. At the end of the honing session I generally lap any residual swarf off of the hones. You don't want to soak the naniwas, just spray them with a bit of water.

Make sure to take a plane blade or some sort of heavy metal tool and break in you diamond plate. I don't have a plane so I use the shank on a 12" screw driver. A bit of water on the plate and rub it down well with the metal to remove any stray high spots from he diamond.

Here is Lynn's razor con video and here is David Polan's.

You should always lap new hones. Just use the pencil grid marker test, It's pretty easy to do so. Never soak the naniwas, especially for a long extended period. Like already said, a spritz or some even pour water on them.

Y'all are fast! As far as lapping goes, I found this article to be great as it's well-written and has lots of images:
Hone Lapping 101 - Straight Razor Place Wiki

A couple of points. Lynn taught me to always lap after you are done honing (excluding the first time of course). That way the stones are always ready when you are in the mood or need.

Second, get ready for a healthy amount of elbow grease. The DMT and the stones like to form a suction between them - even under running water, which is the best place to lap.

David

I use the same Naniwa hones. Including picture of my setup. After use of a hone, I wipe off swarf with a cloth, and rinse in water (on left.) Before using a hone, I dip in water to wet. I find that much better than exclusive use of spray bottle. Also, lap after every few razors.

Thanks everyone for the great advice.... I think I have everything to get started and then I think of another question... There should be a workbook and a test!!

Anyway... I have the DMT 325grit... to lapp with... I read somewhere, not on this forum, not to use anything that course on my 4000 8000 or 12000 is that correct? do I lapp my 4000 8000 and 12000 with a differnt stone.. He said 700 grit or better in his post.... I haven't done anything yet... read that and got scared...

do I need another lapping stone?? for the higher grits??

I've been watching the videos I was recomended on setting the bevel.. I know I'm green.. but it seems to me that this is the most important step... the rest is a very sophisticated and accurate way of polishing what you have set with the bevel...

How many razors does it usually take to learn this skill?...

Is setting the bevel the hardest step to learn?

Tape on the spine or no tape on the spine?

thanks again.. Maq

I have a set of naniwas and - like a lot of other people - have found that are not the most dimensionally stable of hones. The polymer used to bind them seems to expand or shrink depending on prevaling conditions and other variables, and though the actual distortion may be miniscule it means that I, in common with others, lap them lightly before each use. Lapping them after use and leaving them ready for the next time seems to be contra-indicated.

Having said that I have read posts by other people who say that they need very little lapping and that they do not swell or shrink. Why there are two conflicting views, I don't know, I only know that mine do change and that the lapping, while not at all arduous or prolonged, is necessary. Some of mine seem to rise up at the edges, others in the middle, some in random places.

I use a DMT 325 for all of them. Like alembic says, the suction is a problem. Maybe something like the shapton lapping plate would be better - if you have deep pockets!

YMMV

Regards,
Neil