Thread: Breadknifing While Honing

I don't "joint" with all razors; only the razors with gross imperfections in them, and in order to establish a straight edge. It is the beginning of my 1K process. After establishing the straight edge, then the usual 1K work starts.

I never "joint" after 1K.

OK I just got this razor from the mailbox, I bought it off e-bay like this and got it very cheap because of the discoloration on the blade (now gone after 5 minutes on the buffer) and that frown...



When I get off work tonight I will breadknife that edge straight, then I will sit in front of the TV with a 325 DMT and a 1k Norton and re-cut the entire bevel, it will take me about 1/2 hour, this is not really honing it is restoration... Honing will come after that...

Now I could sit there and do circles and X strokes and apply pressure in the right spot to even up the blade, BUT, I might just cause more metal to be wasted.. When I breadknife it I will change it from a 6/8 to a 11/16 and have a perfectly straight edge again... I will not grind the spine extra because the idiot that honed this in the first place already did that for me I smoothed that up with the buffer, so you can't see the hone wear as bad now...

I'll post the new pics later tonight or tomorrow....


The biggest problem with this technique is not knowing when to use it, not the technique... Hmmmm I might try a Video on this...

Originally Posted by gssixgun

... When I get off work tonight I will breadknife that edge straight, then I will sit in front of the TV with a 325 DMT and a 1k Norton and re-cut the entire bevel... Now I could sit there and do circles and X strokes and apply pressure in the right spot to even up the blade, BUT, I might just cause more metal to be wasted.. When I breadknife it I will change it from a 6/8 to a 11/16 and have a perfectly straight edge again...

This really speaks to my original (poorly framed) question about "jointing."

When it comes off the DMT, your edge will be raspy and ragged. I am very interested in how you remove the flawed edge, and establish a good straight edge. Can't wait for your next report!

Never, no way, no how, nada, don't, won't, nope............

But thanks for asking...........................

Repairing or restoring an edge, now that's a different story...........

Originally Posted by LarryAndro

This really speaks to my original (poorly framed) question about "jointing."

When it comes off the DMT, your edge will be raspy and ragged. I am very interested in how you remove the flawed edge, and establish a good straight edge. Can't wait for your next report!

IME it doesn't take all that long to correct a raspy, ragged edge with circles and x strokes. If you breadknife it you will ..... IMO.... IME, cause yourself more work. I agree with Glen that a frown like the one on his Dovo could call for the more extreme form known as breadknifing. OTOH, jointing as Harrelson uses it is just lightly pulling the edge perpendicular to the hone with the weight of the blade and no more. With breadknifing pressure is used and removing metal is the objective. Jointing is said to be effective at cleaning up the very edge.

Originally Posted by LarryAndro

This really speaks to my original (poorly framed) question about "jointing."

When it comes off the DMT, your edge will be raspy and ragged. I am very interested in how you remove the flawed edge, and establish a good straight edge. Can't wait for your next report!

Actually no, not really because I am going to work into a smooth edge, BUT if you were to look at the edge right now you would see a rather ugly sight because it just came off the buffers...

Again Honing at one end Restoration on the other, this is exactly what causes the mis interpretation of the whole process...

Watch that Dovo video, at one point they are going to take the razor and place it on a platter to cut a Pre-bevel they have the spine off the platter this cuts an angle into the razor this is what I am going to do with the DMT, then I am going to take it into the actual bevel with the Norton1K... Same process just different equipment...I am not doing anything that has not been done to the razor before...

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

...With breadknifing pressure is used and removing metal is the objective.

I used the term breadknifing in my original post because I didn't know the term jointing. Please wipe breadknifing out of your minds! It is not at all what I was referring to.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

...OTOH, jointing as Harrelson uses it is just lightly pulling the edge perpendicular to the hone with the weight of the blade and no more.

"Jointing" is all that I referred to. And, in fact the above "Harrelson technique" is exactly how I do it. LIGHTLY!

Originally Posted by LarryAndro

"Jointing" is all that I referred to. And, in fact the above "Harrelson technique" is exactly how I do it. LIGHTLY!

I tried it after watching Harrelson's razor honing video. I think he was honing the second or third razor ..... and last that he ever attempted. He used his side honing method which he developed for chisels. I also tried it on a few razors jointing and all. Not my cup of tea, the side honing or the jointing but if you find it works well for you why not.

when I get wire edge, which is very rare occasion, I just gently run the edge on the height corner of the stone and continue the bevel setting. It also could work to run the razor a few times edge trailing.
If there is a frown then I do jointing.

Let's say you restore a frown on a DMT or some such rough stone. After the gross shape is corrected, the edge is microscopically (and to the touch) jagged and rough just from the grit in the stone or diamond. And, on to the 1K hone.

It doesn't make sense to me to fix this initially by circles, etc. "Joint" it lightly, very lightly to get rid of the outer imperfections, and establish a straight line. THEN, circle and X and so on.

It doesn't make sense to me to say so adamantly that this should not be done, as some seem to be saying. I am not understanding something.