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  1. #21
    Senior Member ericm's Avatar
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    I bought the TI razor new from classicshaving.com. Maybe I should try backhoning. I haven't done that before.

    I think I can get the Shapton 12000 from a local Woodcraft store later today, which means I could try to get this thing sharp over the weekend. Do you all have any preferences between the synthetic ceramic stones and the Belgian yellow coticule? The Belgain stones I've found on the web are quite expensive. I also don't know how long it would take to get hold of one.

    E

  2. #22
    Super Shaver xman's Avatar
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    I have a 12,000 Shapton(Sharpton?) that I've found I don't really use. I can sell it to you for the same $25 I paid if you want. PM me.

    X

  3. #23
    Senior Member ericm's Avatar
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    I'm going to check prices and availability on the Belgian stones first. Thanks for the offer, I might take you up on it.
    E

  4. #24
    Senior Member Joe Lerch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by str8razor
    Joe is right. I had a blade that I could not get to hold an edge let alone shave well. I honed it one day starting with the 220 grit, 1000 grit, 4000 grit, 8000 grit, 12000 grit doing 20 round trips each. This did remove the old edge and start a new one but still it did not shave well. HOWEVER, DO NOT USE THE 220 GRIT AS THIS CRUMBLED THE EDGE AND LEFT IT WITH TINY IRREGULARITIES WHICH ONLY COMPLICATED THE PROBLEM. Joe then suggested after each shave to pyramid the blade using the 4000 and 8000 at a 3/3,3/3,3/3,1/3,1/3,1/3 system and then 20 strokes using 0.5 diamond paste and then 20 strokes on the leather strop.
    I actually did this and finally the blade did come out of it and actually bacame a good shaver.
    Note: all of the grits except the 12000 were a Norton and the 12000 was a Shapton.
    I would not have used the 220, as you discovered. Also, on the 1K, I wouldn't count strokes. You can tape the spine and do as many strokes as it takes to start a new edge. When it's visibly there, take off the tape and move up to the 4K. Ithen like to work on the 4K until the edge is ready. It should look straight and even and pass the thumbnail test. From there use your usual technique to bring it to a sharp state.

  5. #25
    Senior Member ericm's Avatar
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    Default Got it!

    I finally got the TI sharp! I got hold of a 15K Shapton, and after no more than 15 very light swipes the blade was passing the HHT without stropping. After stropping, it cuts hairs via the HHT very easily. I haven't shaved with it yet. I'm giving my face a few days rest from all the earlier testing.

    Interestingly, I got the 15K Shapton because it's a non-porous stone like the Belgian coticule. I know the Shapton is synthetic, but I suspected there might be something to the non-porous nature of the stone. Indeed, that's all it took.

    In my very limited experience so far, I would surmise that the hardness of the steel is one of the most important factors determining how one should approach sharpening. Clearly, my Dovo was doing so well off the 8K that it didn't need anything else and it shaves great. I don't know what the cutting differences are between the 8K Norton and the 15K Shapton (as far as efficiency at removing metal), but it clearly made a huge difference in my case with the TI.

    Thanks for all the advice, it really helped me get a perspective on the whole thing!

    E

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