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Thread: Norton honing vid
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03-31-2006, 05:11 PM #11
I try to take Nenad's warnings not to go apesh*t on the equipment to heart
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04-01-2006, 05:15 AM #12
- Join Date
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- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
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Thanked: 2209Brian has really tried to contribute to this hobby of ours and I thank him for his efforts.
One of the things he does that I feel is in error is to lap the hone with some sandpaper and his fingers. The purpose of lapping is to "flatten" the stone. For that you need a flat surface. Using a pumice stone or old razor hone that is as wide as the Norton is one of the correct metrhods. But using your fingers is not. That is only good for removing built up "swarf".
Brian also is using a straight across "push" stroke. Many of us disagree with that and instead use either an X pattern or have the toe of the blade angled back (heel leading). Both the X pattern and the heel leading stroke create a scratch pattern (striations) that is angled and gives a better shave.
I also take strong issue with putting your fingers on the blade. This results in an uneven wear on the bevel/blade. Your best bet is to learn to use one hand with the fingers on the shank(as a fulcrum) and use your other fingers as a lever on the scales.
Just had to comment,Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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04-01-2006, 07:06 AM #13
And it's appreciated... The video is just a starting point for a discussion on the topic, especially since he does it differently than what is the general concensus here.
Edit: His way of checking for sharpness is also unorthodox.
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04-01-2006, 12:25 PM #14Originally Posted by randydance062449
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04-01-2006, 04:39 PM #15
I'd like to hear more about how users are gripping the blade while honing. I'm just beginning, and the blade is prone to rock and lift all over the place. I tried keeping a finger on the blade as in Brian's video, and was at least able to repair the unevenness that my clumsiness had wrought on my only razor.
For anybody: how does your grip feel while you hone? Are you lifting slightly on the scales using your shank as a fulcrum, to keep pressure on the blade? How far up the shank onto the blade are your fingers? Do you have any other tips on grip?
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04-01-2006, 05:05 PM #16
Welcome, deepweeds
I grip the shank as close to the blade as possible with my thumb on the edge side of the shank and forefinger contacting the spine side of the shank. This requires a slight change from left to right as from right to left strokes on the hone, but the difference is ONLY on the thumb placement and forefinger angle. This way I get more identical results on both sides of the blade. Otherwise I keep my wrist and overall hand position EXACTLY the same in both directions for the same reason. I also stretch my other fingers as far as comfortably possible down the under side of the scales for maximum control and keep the pad or heel of my palm in contact with the upper side of the scales.
X
P.S. Are you a waiter by any chance? Having too much to handle in a restaurant is often refered to as being "in the weeds"Last edited by xman; 04-01-2006 at 05:08 PM.
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04-01-2006, 06:52 PM #17Originally Posted by deepweeds
have fun,
Nenad
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04-01-2006, 07:56 PM #18
Are you a waiter by any chance? Having too much to handle in a restaurant is often refered to as being "in the weeds"
Thanks, X; Thanks, Nenad. I'll try to "keep it light" while I get used to the feel.
X: I've been a waiter a number of times, and yes, that's where I learned the expression that I use for a handle. Even though I'm in other work now, I'm still usually "in the weeds." :^)