Thread: Post your Progression

I always wonder what different people are doing - if someones says "I just honed a razor" I love to ask "Wha'd you do?" So I thought, why not make a thread about it.

If you have a go-to progression that is your "standard" let's see it
If you tried something new, let's see it
If you used to do X but now do Y, let's see it
If your progression changes in the future, don't forget to tell us
If you'd like to include what tests you use at each stage, that would be cool too

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NOTE: For smiling razors, insert "rolling" before "circles" and "X's" - here is a writeup I did a while back about rolling circles http://straightrazorpalace.com/511701-post11.html

Bevel setting:
For a long time, I was setting bevels on a Norton 1k. I recently got a DMT1.2k and I've been playing with that recently. Regardless of which I use, I do roughly the same thing - I start doing circles, and every now and then I'll throw in 10 X's and check the edge (TPT) to see how the bevel's coming. I repeat this till I have a bevel. Depending how much work needs to be done and what sort of razor it is, I'll use varying amounts of pressure, but I ALWAYS finish with a few circles with very very light pressure and 10 X's with very very light pressure.
TESTS: I like to re-calibrate my TPT every session by popping some arm hairs and then feeling the bevel.

I then move to my Naniwa 5k. Here, I'm also trying something new. I'll do some circles with medium pressure, then circles with moderate pressure, then circles with very light pressure. I then do 10 X's with very light pressure and move on.
TESTS: I actually don't do any tests off the 5k

I then move to my Naniwa 8k. Here, I'm ALSO trying something new. I'll do some circles with very light pressure, then 10 X's with very light pressure and move on.
TESTS: Off my 8k, I can cut "hanging arm hairs" - hold the edge of the razor about a quarter of an inch above my forearm and cut the hairs. Or, I can shave test and get a very smooth shave with no pulling.

On to the finishers - I pick whichever I'm going to use (currently coti, thurry, or asagi) and do just X's with just water. The number depends on the hone.
TESTS: None

Stropping:
I strop on an old Tony Miller Black Latigo Apprentice strop. It was my first strop (I bought in used about 2.5 years ago), and I haven't gotten around to upgrading yet. I do 50 laps on the leather (I don't have canvas).
TESTS: SHAVE!

Today I tried something a tad different on my ERN that I've never done on the bevel setting.

Taped spine throughout the honing.

Naniwa 1k: 10 laps (X pattern) - 10 back-and-forth on both sides - 10 laps (X pattern). Did this until it was popping hair. 3 cycles of this did it for me.

Naniwa 3k: Same progression as above. 3 cycles.

Naniwa 5k: Same progression as above. 1 cycle.

BBW with slurry: 15 laps (X pattern)

Naniwa 12k: 15 laps (X patten)

CrOx on linen strop: 30 laps

Kanayama: 100 laps

I tried and tried to do circles but I can't seem to get it just right but when I tried the back-and-forth on both sides it really put a smile on my face when I shaved today.

I hold all the hones in my left hand & razor in my right. To set a bevel I begin with a King 800 grit ( I killed my 1200 DMT). I start with circles, then X's. circles, then X's. I'll check the edge with a TNT. I keep at it till it passes this, then it's only X's. When it's passing the TPT I lighten the pressure again. When it shaves hair on my arm when drawn over the skin, I'm ready to move on. I'm using far more pressure in the early stages these days. When I started, I read rather a lot to avoid pressure at all costs. Now I know when I can use it to speed up the process. Whatever pressure I've used, I always finish each grit with a light touch.

Currently I now move on to a Shapton GS 4k. Circles again, but a far lighter touch. After around 15 each side I'm back on the X's. I'm looking for the wave in front of the edge to flow onto the blade. Lighten the touch again & look for the blade to almost be cutting beneath that wave.

On to the Shapton GS 8k. Straight into the X's now, but the rest of the process is the same. I'll often check with the TPT. I'm looking to ensure it's getting stickier & stickier.

Shapton GS 16k. X's. Fairly light touch. I'll do maybe 50 laps, then take the pressure right off. Barely the weight of the blade. After another 30 odd laps it's almost negative pressure. I draw the blade over the hone very slowly to maintain complete control. 15-20 & I'm done.

For what it's worth, the blade will pass the HHT & pop arm hair above the skin at this stage.

Right now I'm stropping with a Hand American Old Dog 830. The embossed side really seems to refine the edge further. After this, it's either the smooth side of the HA, or on to a custom 2.5" Tony Miller horsehide.

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

I always wonder what different people are doing - if someones says "I just honed a razor" I love to ask "Wha'd you do?" So I thought, why not make a thread about it.

If you have a go-to progression that is your "standard" let's see it
If you tried something new, let's see it
If you used to do X but now do Y, let's see it
If your progression changes in the future, don't forget to tell us
If you'd like to include what tests you use at each stage, that would be cool too

------

NOTE: For smiling razors, insert "rolling" before "circles" and "X's" I do circles I'll find the thread and link here in a sec

Bevel setting:
For a long time, I was setting bevels on a Norton 1k. I recently got a DMT1.2k and I've been playing with that recently. Regardless of which I use, I do roughly the same thing - I start doing circles, and every now and then I'll throw in 10 X's and check the edge (TPT) to see how the bevel's coming. I repeat this till I have a bevel. Depending how much work needs to be done and what sort of razor it is, I'll use varying amounts of pressure, but I ALWAYS finish with a few circles with very very light pressure and 10 X's with very very light pressure.
TESTS: I like to re-calibrate my TPT every session by popping some arm hairs and then feeling the bevel.

I then move to my Naniwa 5k. Here, I'm also trying something new. I'll do some circles with medium pressure, then circles with moderate pressure, then circles with very light pressure. I then do 10 X's with very light pressure and move on.
TESTS: I actually don't do any tests off the 5k

I then move to my Naniwa 8k. Here, I'm ALSO trying something new. I'll do some circles with very light pressure, then 10 X's with very light pressure and move on.
TESTS: Off my 8k, I can cut "hanging arm hairs" - hold the edge of the razor about a quarter of an inch above my forearm and cut the hairs. Or, I can shave test and get a very smooth shave with no pulling.

On to the finishers - I pick whichever I'm going to use (currently coti, thurry, or asagi) and do just X's with just water. The number depends on the hone.
TESTS: None

Stropping:
I strop on an old Tony Miller Black Latigo Apprentice strop. It was my first strop (I bought in used about 2.5 years ago), and I haven't gotten around to upgrading yet. I do 50 laps on the leather (I don't have canvas).
TESTS: SHAVE!

Hey, Dylan, out of curiosity... How often would you say that you do flat circles, and how often would you say you had to do those "rolling circles"? From what I've seen in razors so far, I've only had two or three that I could do plain, flat circles on, two wedges, and one about half hollow... The rest took rolling x's or rolling circles...

What would you say is your ratio to flat vs. rolling when it comes to circles?

Thanks,
Jeremy

I've recently had great success using my new coti in a progression:

- Downstroke on glass to kill the edge on a previously tape-honed razor

- Bevel set w/ my DMT (equevilant) EF till passing the TNT (no more tape for me)

- Slurry on coti till shaving arm hair easily, (diluting as I go)

- 15 or 20 laps on Nani12k (no testing)

- 30+ laps on Spyderco UF with soapy water(no testing)

- 30 laps on coti under running water (AHT test and HHT)

- 10 Laps Crox pasted paddle strop w/ latigo

- 20 laps on Ceox pasted paddle w/ latigo

- 50 laps on TM Linen

- 40 laps on Bear-hide

- 60 laps on Russian Shell

HHT

Result: the single greatest shave I've had yet. Smooth, forgiving, and wickedly sharp.

I have a few progressions, but I prefer mostly one particular line up because its most worked and gives great consistent results.

If I have to repair edges that require much work I use a fairly warn DMT 325, then Chosera 600. If an edge is good enough to pass on the 1k, I use 3k chosera to get it ready for polishing.

I set bevels on 1k Chosera, I always do marker test to see which stroke will work best.
If no special strokes are needed I go for circles and x-strokes.
If special strokes are needed usually rolling x works the best for me.

The main progression after 1k is:
Ozuku Asagi ~3-8k- very fast and works with any razor I have put on it so far.
Shinden Suita ~ 10-20k- extremely fast and works with any razor I have put on it so far
Finisher: A variety of Nakayamas, also 2 Eschers.

I used to test the bevel by shaving leg hair, but now I can tell the bevel is set by looking with my scope.


When I have time I experiment with Mejiro and Koma nagura on Nakayama, which so far has worked great after my bevel setter.
I have also experimented with Nakayama after 1k and it works just fine, it only takes a tad longer than when I use other stones in between.

Another stone I like to play with is my recently purchased first coticule. Now that I have played with it for a few times I was able to get great shaves after the bevel set on 1k, I use it with slurry and dilution, and finish on water only.

I also am playing with two Eschers and they can take the place of any of my Nakayamas in my main progression.

In storage I have a synthetic line up which sees very limited use now, but I keep just in case.
3k chosera, 5k super stone, 8k King, 10k Super stone.

I think I am stone junkie

I like to feel my finishing stones, so I do not use CrO after the stone, I go straight to hanging strop.
I use SRD Premium IV, with synthetic fabric.
I do 40/60 and test shave.

I do different things for different occasions... but the
starting point has been a progression 15u, 5u, 0.3u abrasive
film on glass. I use a modified set of circles which are really
rapid back and forth never lifting the blade or spine strokes. The
goal is to set a flat and even bevel. Only the last five or
six strokes are normal honing strokes before changing grit.
Working on glass gives me a very flat and ultimately polished
bevel. I work hard to remove any previous grit scratches.
A final stropping on canvas lightly loaded with
0.25 diamond followed by leather is the last step.

I find that the 0.3 micron film results in a good but sometimes very
harsh shaving edge (Like a Feather is harsh). This harshness can
be tamed with a visit back to a Naniwa Super Stone SS12K hone
or a revisit to the lightly pasted hanging strop.

Once a shaver has a good bevel, touch up involves a
Naniwa Super Stone SS12K hone and sometimes a short
pyramid back to a Norton 4/8K.

Originally Posted by ShavedZombie

Hey, Dylan, out of curiosity... How often would you say that you do flat circles, and how often would you say you had to do those "rolling circles"? From what I've seen in razors so far, I've only had two or three that I could do plain, flat circles on, two wedges, and one about half hollow... The rest took rolling x's or rolling circles...

What would you say is your ratio to flat vs. rolling when it comes to circles?

Thanks,
Jeremy

I really couldn't say what my ratio of flat to non-flat razors is, but it seems that there are more that are non-flat.

Jeremy, I think you are misunderstanding something I said about flat vs rolling circles - if a razor requires rolling circles, I do not do flat circles; a razor that needs rolling circles NEEDS rolling circles. It's one or the other. That said, rolling circles to allow me to focus in on any particular area where it becomes necessary. i.e. if the bevel comes in everywhere except in the toe area, I can spend more time with the razor "rolled" to provide toe contact. (We already talked a bit about that in this thread: http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...ning-help.html)

Aren't you going to share your progression too, SZ?

Originally Posted by wdwrx

I
- Downstroke on glass to kill the edge on a previously tape-honed razor

- Bevel set w/ my DMT (equevilant) EF till passing the TNT (no more tape for me)

What the heck is the point in dulling the edge on glass prior to setting the bevel?

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

I really couldn't say what my ratio of flat to non-flat razors is, but it seems that there are more that are non-flat.

Jeremy, I think you are misunderstanding something I said about flat vs rolling circles - if a razor requires rolling circles, I do not do flat circles; a razor that needs rolling circles NEEDS rolling circles. It's one or the other. That said, rolling circles to allow me to focus in on any particular area where it becomes necessary. i.e. if the bevel comes in everywhere except in the toe area, I can spend more time with the razor "rolled" to provide toe contact. (We already talked a bit about that in this thread: http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...ning-help.html)

Aren't you going to share your progression too, SZ?

I'll gladly share my progression tonight when i have access to a keyboard... I'm on my phone right now. To be honest I just have the minimum requirements from the Naniwa line... thats all... My stropping progression, however... Well, I'll elaborate tonight.

Thanks for the pointers,
Cheers
Jeremy