Thread: Post your Progression

I always wonder what different people are doing - if someones says "I just honed a razor" I love to ask "Wha'd you do?" So I thought, why not make a thread about it.

If you have a go-to progression that is your "standard" let's see it
If you tried something new, let's see it
If you used to do X but now do Y, let's see it
If your progression changes in the future, don't forget to tell us
If you'd like to include what tests you use at each stage, that would be cool too

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NOTE: For smiling razors, insert "rolling" before "circles" and "X's" - here is a writeup I did a while back about rolling circles http://straightrazorpalace.com/511701-post11.html

Bevel setting:
For a long time, I was setting bevels on a Norton 1k. I recently got a DMT1.2k and I've been playing with that recently. Regardless of which I use, I do roughly the same thing - I start doing circles, and every now and then I'll throw in 10 X's and check the edge (TPT) to see how the bevel's coming. I repeat this till I have a bevel. Depending how much work needs to be done and what sort of razor it is, I'll use varying amounts of pressure, but I ALWAYS finish with a few circles with very very light pressure and 10 X's with very very light pressure.
TESTS: I like to re-calibrate my TPT every session by popping some arm hairs and then feeling the bevel.

I then move to my Naniwa 5k. Here, I'm also trying something new. I'll do some circles with medium pressure, then circles with moderate pressure, then circles with very light pressure. I then do 10 X's with very light pressure and move on.
TESTS: I actually don't do any tests off the 5k

I then move to my Naniwa 8k. Here, I'm ALSO trying something new. I'll do some circles with very light pressure, then 10 X's with very light pressure and move on.
TESTS: Off my 8k, I can cut "hanging arm hairs" - hold the edge of the razor about a quarter of an inch above my forearm and cut the hairs. Or, I can shave test and get a very smooth shave with no pulling.

On to the finishers - I pick whichever I'm going to use (currently coti, thurry, or asagi) and do just X's with just water. The number depends on the hone.
TESTS: None

Stropping:
I strop on an old Tony Miller Black Latigo Apprentice strop. It was my first strop (I bought in used about 2.5 years ago), and I haven't gotten around to upgrading yet. I do 50 laps on the leather (I don't have canvas).
TESTS: SHAVE!

Today I tried something a tad different on my ERN that I've never done on the bevel setting.

Taped spine throughout the honing.

Naniwa 1k: 10 laps (X pattern) - 10 back-and-forth on both sides - 10 laps (X pattern). Did this until it was popping hair. 3 cycles of this did it for me.

Naniwa 3k: Same progression as above. 3 cycles.

Naniwa 5k: Same progression as above. 1 cycle.

BBW with slurry: 15 laps (X pattern)

Naniwa 12k: 15 laps (X patten)

CrOx on linen strop: 30 laps

Kanayama: 100 laps

I tried and tried to do circles but I can't seem to get it just right but when I tried the back-and-forth on both sides it really put a smile on my face when I shaved today.

I have a few progressions, but I prefer mostly one particular line up because its most worked and gives great consistent results.

If I have to repair edges that require much work I use a fairly warn DMT 325, then Chosera 600. If an edge is good enough to pass on the 1k, I use 3k chosera to get it ready for polishing.

I set bevels on 1k Chosera, I always do marker test to see which stroke will work best.
If no special strokes are needed I go for circles and x-strokes.
If special strokes are needed usually rolling x works the best for me.

The main progression after 1k is:
Ozuku Asagi ~3-8k- very fast and works with any razor I have put on it so far.
Shinden Suita ~ 10-20k- extremely fast and works with any razor I have put on it so far
Finisher: A variety of Nakayamas, also 2 Eschers.

I used to test the bevel by shaving leg hair, but now I can tell the bevel is set by looking with my scope.


When I have time I experiment with Mejiro and Koma nagura on Nakayama, which so far has worked great after my bevel setter.
I have also experimented with Nakayama after 1k and it works just fine, it only takes a tad longer than when I use other stones in between.

Another stone I like to play with is my recently purchased first coticule. Now that I have played with it for a few times I was able to get great shaves after the bevel set on 1k, I use it with slurry and dilution, and finish on water only.

I also am playing with two Eschers and they can take the place of any of my Nakayamas in my main progression.

In storage I have a synthetic line up which sees very limited use now, but I keep just in case.
3k chosera, 5k super stone, 8k King, 10k Super stone.

I think I am stone junkie

I like to feel my finishing stones, so I do not use CrO after the stone, I go straight to hanging strop.
I use SRD Premium IV, with synthetic fabric.
I do 40/60 and test shave.

I do different things for different occasions... but the
starting point has been a progression 15u, 5u, 0.3u abrasive
film on glass. I use a modified set of circles which are really
rapid back and forth never lifting the blade or spine strokes. The
goal is to set a flat and even bevel. Only the last five or
six strokes are normal honing strokes before changing grit.
Working on glass gives me a very flat and ultimately polished
bevel. I work hard to remove any previous grit scratches.
A final stropping on canvas lightly loaded with
0.25 diamond followed by leather is the last step.

I find that the 0.3 micron film results in a good but sometimes very
harsh shaving edge (Like a Feather is harsh). This harshness can
be tamed with a visit back to a Naniwa Super Stone SS12K hone
or a revisit to the lightly pasted hanging strop.

Once a shaver has a good bevel, touch up involves a
Naniwa Super Stone SS12K hone and sometimes a short
pyramid back to a Norton 4/8K.

I hold all the hones in my left hand & razor in my right. To set a bevel I begin with a King 800 grit ( I killed my 1200 DMT). I start with circles, then X's. circles, then X's. I'll check the edge with a TNT. I keep at it till it passes this, then it's only X's. When it's passing the TPT I lighten the pressure again. When it shaves hair on my arm when drawn over the skin, I'm ready to move on. I'm using far more pressure in the early stages these days. When I started, I read rather a lot to avoid pressure at all costs. Now I know when I can use it to speed up the process. Whatever pressure I've used, I always finish each grit with a light touch.

Currently I now move on to a Shapton GS 4k. Circles again, but a far lighter touch. After around 15 each side I'm back on the X's. I'm looking for the wave in front of the edge to flow onto the blade. Lighten the touch again & look for the blade to almost be cutting beneath that wave.

On to the Shapton GS 8k. Straight into the X's now, but the rest of the process is the same. I'll often check with the TPT. I'm looking to ensure it's getting stickier & stickier.

Shapton GS 16k. X's. Fairly light touch. I'll do maybe 50 laps, then take the pressure right off. Barely the weight of the blade. After another 30 odd laps it's almost negative pressure. I draw the blade over the hone very slowly to maintain complete control. 15-20 & I'm done.

For what it's worth, the blade will pass the HHT & pop arm hair above the skin at this stage.

Right now I'm stropping with a Hand American Old Dog 830. The embossed side really seems to refine the edge further. After this, it's either the smooth side of the HA, or on to a custom 2.5" Tony Miller horsehide.

I've recently had great success using my new coti in a progression:

- Downstroke on glass to kill the edge on a previously tape-honed razor

- Bevel set w/ my DMT (equevilant) EF till passing the TNT (no more tape for me)

- Slurry on coti till shaving arm hair easily, (diluting as I go)

- 15 or 20 laps on Nani12k (no testing)

- 30+ laps on Spyderco UF with soapy water(no testing)

- 30 laps on coti under running water (AHT test and HHT)

- 10 Laps Crox pasted paddle strop w/ latigo

- 20 laps on Ceox pasted paddle w/ latigo

- 50 laps on TM Linen

- 40 laps on Bear-hide

- 60 laps on Russian Shell

HHT

Result: the single greatest shave I've had yet. Smooth, forgiving, and wickedly sharp.

Originally Posted by wdwrx

I
- Downstroke on glass to kill the edge on a previously tape-honed razor

- Bevel set w/ my DMT (equevilant) EF till passing the TNT (no more tape for me)

What the heck is the point in dulling the edge on glass prior to setting the bevel?

Originally Posted by Utopian

What the heck is the point in dulling the edge on glass prior to setting the bevel?

It's a technique I've learned from Bart, it ensures that the new bevel is just that, a new bevel. By ensuring that the edge does not shave arm hair at all, one can be assured that the new bevel exists in fresh new steel, and won't shave arm hair again until it is perfectly set. Then and only then do I move up in the progression. Bart is much more eloquent than I am, and his explanation makes a tremendous amount of sense. I tried a couple of quick searches but couldn't find a good write-up on it. When I do find it I'll post it for you.

I had a hard time doing it the first time, but it only takes about 2 or 3 sets of 10 half stokes to re-establish the bevel. It's not like you're wrecking the edge, you're just removing it's cutting ability, by drawing it across a glass surface using ONLY the weight of the blade. It leaves no doubt that you've properly established a bevel.

Originally Posted by wdwrx

It's a technique I've learned from Bart, it ensures that the new bevel is just that, a new bevel. By ensuring that the edge does not shave arm hair at all, one can be assured that the new bevel exists in fresh new steel, and won't shave arm hair again until it is perfectly set. Then and only then do I move up in the progression. Bart is much more eloquent than I am, and his explanation makes a tremendous amount of sense. I tried a couple of quick searches but couldn't find a good write-up on it. When I do find it I'll post it for you.

I had a hard time doing it the first time, but it only takes about 2 or 3 sets of 10 half stokes to re-establish the bevel. It's not like you're wrecking the edge, you're just removing it's cutting ability, by drawing it across a glass surface using ONLY the weight of the blade. It leaves no doubt that you've properly established a bevel.

OK, thanks for the explanation. I respect Bart's work but regarding the dulling, I don't agree with it. However, I don't want to hijack the thread so I'll let it go.

I'm the same as Ben, I hold the hone in my left hand and the razor in my right, and I always tape the spine.

My go to stones are the Naniwa 1/3/8/12k set, and I use a Nakayama Maruichi or Charnley Forest to finish. I have a coticule as well, but it doesnt see much use..!

I do have a set of Shaptons (1/4/8/16k) which I might use on heavier grinds as they seem to be slightly more aggressive than the Naniwas, but I'm still trying to figure out which set of stones to use with which razor.

I check the edge with a 30x loupe before I start to see if there are any small chips. If there are, I start on the 325 DMT doing X strokes only until the chips are gone, then move on to the 1k.

I start on the 1k with circles, and my usual pattern is to do 40 circles a side, then 10 X strokes and do a TNT to see how the edge is coming along, then repeat as needed. If its a smiling blade I do rolling circles and X's, and I usually make my X strokes with the heel leading slightly. I find this works well for me at getting good an even contact with the stone. If the blade is warped I dont do circles, I just stick with X strokes. Once the TNT gives consistent results all the way along the blade, I do a final 10 very light X's and then make sure I can shave arm hair at skin level, then move on to the 3k.

The 3k is much the same as the 1k, I do 40 circles a side then 10 X strokes (and repeat as needed) and I look through the loupe to make sure that the satin look of the 1k bevel has been evenly and fully replaced by the 3k edge, which is more shiny. Once I have the even 3k shine I make sure I can still shave arm hair and move on to the 8k.

I do X strokes only on the 8k, again looking to see that edge become shinier still through the loupe. My test on the 8k is to shave arm hair floating about 1mm above the skin. Once I can do that I move on to the 12k.

X's only again on the 12k, and keeping an eye on things through the loupe. I dont really have a test on the 12k, other than to make sure I can still shave arm hair floating above the skin, and things look good through the loupe. I probably do 20 X's or so, but I just do it on feel TBH. Once the razor feels like its gliding over the stone without the stone polishing, I move on to the finisher.

The finisher is either the Maruichi or the Charnley Forest. On the CF, I do 40 - 50 X strokes and I put a small amount of dish soap on the stone, a tip JimmyHAD gave me that works very well! Thanks Jimmy!

On the Maruichi, I start with a medium slurry and do 25 X strokes, then dilute to a light slurry and do another 25 X's, then dilute to water and do a final 25 X's, then the tape comes off the spine.

I finish by stropping on my SRD 3" black latigo with webbed fabric. I do 30 on the fabric, then 60 strokes on the leather and test shave.

And thats it..!