Thread: Post your Progression

On occasion to hone a dull razor I work backwards. I start with the 8K and polish the edge up. Then I look closely at the polished edge to read the geometry errors in the spine. If the shine is not equal in width or effect I evaluate why before I pick up any stone.

I think this is a very important step, I don't know how much time I have saved myelf, as well as wear, by doing theis slight run over the high grit stone.

My progression.

1. Look the edge over real good. Touch it. Feel it. Look some more. Decide how low to go. If chipped I go with DMC or DMTF, else DMTEF. Create bevel. Once I am sure I have bevel set. I hone a little more because invariably if I leave my bevel setting stones too fast and I end up having to go all the way back to them. Has happened so many times it's ridiculous. Now I set the bevel for sure, for sure. for sure.

2. DMTEF or Norton 1K. Am now having poor performance from my DMTEF. Think it's worn out. Is that possible? Not sure, will start a string on that sometime.

3. Shapton 4K. Freshly lapped.

4. Shapton 8K. Freshly lapped.

5. Shapton 16K. Freshly lapped.

6. Jap or German rock next, depending on alignment of the stars.

7. 50 Linen.

8. 100 Leather.

9. Try her out.

Note: My test for moving up in the progression is testing on arm hair and the feel of the edge. I pretty much go by how the edge reacts when put up against individual hairs. I don't pyramid and I do use tape. Lots of tape.
I found that if I do not change tape often I hone off some of the tape and change the angle between the spine and the edge. Have seen this on the bevel when I overhone a piece of tape. Tape's a PITA, I know, but I just like to tape.

Originally Posted by Doop

Am now having poor performance from my DMTEF. Think it's worn out. Is that possible? Not sure, will start a string on that sometime.

It is indeed possible to wear out a DMT. The diamonds can be removed from the bonding agent that holds them on the plate. I believe the only solution is to buy a new one.

Originally Posted by Alembic

I posted this in my "Disappearing Edge" thread, but it belongs here.

This progression is what I learned from Lynn. I have not had enough experience with problem razors to have deviations to this. I have been using in and getting great results - except when "I" am the problem (not getting the edge suitable to move to the next step).

Most of the time, I skip step 4 and move on to stropping.

Bevel Setting
Stone: 1,000 grit or similar
Sequence: 40 Heavy Pressure Circles – each side
10 Heavy Pressure X Strokes
Test: Repeat Sequence until Pocket Knife Sharp
Look for Thin, Even, Straight line along Edge – this is the bevel

Honing
Step: 1
Stone: 5,000 grit or similar
Sequence: 40 Heavy Pressure Circles – each side
40 Light Pressure Circles – each side
5 -10 Light Pressure X Strokes
Test: Repeat Sequence until Cuts Arm Hair Readily
Do Thumb Pad Test to Check Edge

Step: 2
Stone: 8,000 grit or similar
Sequence: 5 -10 Light Pressure X Strokes
Test: Repeat Sequence until edge passes Thumb Pad Test

Step: 3
Stone: 12,000 grit or similar
Sequence: 5 -10 Light Pressure X Strokes
Test: Repeat Sequence until edge passes Thumb Pad Test

Step: 4
Stone: Hard Felt with .5 micron Diamond Spray
Or Balsa Strop with .5 micron Cro-Ox
Or Fabric Strop with .5 micron Cro-Ox
Sequence: 10 Light Pressure X Strokes
Test: Repeat Sequence until edge passes Thumb Pad Test

Stropping
Strop: Your Choice
Sequence: 60-80 strokes
Test: Repeat Sequence until edge passes Thumb Pad Test

These are additional notes from my session with Lynn.
Honing Notes:
1. Heavy Pressure Circles and Heavy Pressure X Strokes means just that – the table shakes when Lynn does them.
2. Light Pressure X Strokes use just the weight of the blade and enough pressure to keep the blade flat.
3. During the Circle Strokes, keep the blade moving up and down the length of the stone
4. Keep the length of the stone perpendicular to your body.
5. Memorize what the Thumb Pad Test feels like for a Pocket Knife Sharp blade and following each successive sequence.
6. Lift your honing hand elbow to help keep the blade flat on the stone
7. Listen for unevenness in your strokes as the blade travels the stone
8. Watch the water pool carefully as the blade makes strokes on the stone. The pool should be even across the length of the blade and travel with the blade. Then you know you have even pressure and the blade is perfectly flat on the stone.
9. Lynn only uses tape on Damascus and Gold washed spines.

Honing
Step: 1
Stone: 5,000 grit or similar (can I use Naniwa 3000 instead 5000?)
Sequence: 40 Heavy Pressure Circles – each side
40 Light Pressure Circles – each side
5 -10 Light Pressure X Strokes
Test: Repeat Sequence until Cuts Arm Hair Readily
Do Thumb Pad Test to Check Edge

Originally Posted by darklife

Honing
Step: 1
Stone: 5,000 grit or similar (can I use Naniwa 3000 instead 5000?)
Sequence: 40 Heavy Pressure Circles – each side
40 Light Pressure Circles – each side
5 -10 Light Pressure X Strokes
Test: Repeat Sequence until Cuts Arm Hair Readily
Do Thumb Pad Test to Check Edge

I tested this out when I visited Lynn, because he said the 3k and 5k Naniwas can be used interchangeably. I found that yes indeed, either worked, though I preferred the 5k. Some use the 3, others the 5, and still others use both.

I use 3k and it works very well!

Originally Posted by wdwrx

I've recently had great success using my new coti in a progression:

- Downstroke on glass to kill the edge on a previously tape-honed razor

- Bevel set w/ my DMT (equevilant) EF till passing the TNT (no more tape for me)

- Slurry on coti till shaving arm hair easily, (diluting as I go)

- 15 or 20 laps on Nani12k (no testing)

- 30+ laps on Spyderco UF with soapy water(no testing)

- 30 laps on coti under running water (AHT test and HHT)

- 10 Laps Crox pasted paddle strop w/ latigo

- 20 laps on Ceox pasted paddle w/ latigo

- 50 laps on TM Linen

- 40 laps on Bear-hide

- 60 laps on Russian Shell

HHT

Result: the single greatest shave I've had yet. Smooth, forgiving, and wickedly sharp.

where did you get the bear hide strop? whats the draw like?

Originally Posted by darklife

Honing
Step: 1
Stone: 5,000 grit or similar (can I use Naniwa 3000 instead 5000?)
Sequence: 40 Heavy Pressure Circles – each side
40 Light Pressure Circles – each side
5 -10 Light Pressure X Strokes
Test: Repeat Sequence until Cuts Arm Hair Readily
Do Thumb Pad Test to Check Edge

Yes you can use the 3000 instead of the 5000.

This is probably the end of the advice I am qualified to give on honing. I have many many more razors to hone before I feel comfortable giving any of that

pirating, Stub, Alembic, thanks for answer. I appreciate it!

Here's my progression.

1. Inspect the blade and decide it's time to try my hand at honing again.
2. Lap the old 4k/8k norton.
3. Scour through the forums to maybe find something I've missed in the past.
4. Try every single thing I can think of to get a bevel.
5. Fail cutting hairs on my wrist.
6. Re-read the forums.
7. Try once again to set a bevel.
8. Fail at cutting any hair whatsoever.
9. Get a drink.
10. Give it one more shot.
11. Figure it's close enough.
12. Try a shave.
13. Try stopping. I get too excited sometimes.
14. Now try to shave. It's better (obviously), but still not at all good.
15. Switch to one of my razors that's actually sharp.
16. Put away the razor in a safe location, swearing I'll be good at this sometime.
17. Wait a month or two while wondering if it's just a bad razor or (gasp!) my technique.
18. Back to step 1.

Unfortunately, I don't think I'm cut out for honing. I'm sure there's some people out there that are sympathetic to my situation.

Seriously, I do appreciate the forum. I think it just put me back in step one.