Thread: Diagnose: Sharp but not smooth

Originally Posted by bonusmarple

Unfortunately no. I used a thuringian (70 strokes) followed by coticule with just water (100 strokes).

Try using the coti and then the thuri, see if that helps.

Chrom ox has been known to smooth a sharp but harsh edge IME.

bonusmarple,

I have a couple of C135 TIs that sometimes do feel a bit harsh after coming off the stones.

I use a CrOx pasted paddle, or a cotton hanger with TI Pate a Rasoir to smooth the edge; I usually do 5 laps, test & repeat if needed.

I find that once dialled in, the C135 edges last very well indeed.

The C135 blades do feel different on the face compared to my other carbon steel blades; not unpleasent, just different

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

Originally Posted by PhatMan

bonusmarple,

I have a couple of C135 TIs that sometimes do feel a bit harsh after coming off the stones.

I use a CrOx pasted paddle, or a cotton hanger with TI Pate a Rasoir to smooth the edge; I usually do 5 laps, test & repeat if needed.

I find that once dialled in, the C135 edges last very well indeed.

The C135 blades do feel different on the face compared to my other carbon steel blades; not unpleasent, just different

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

This razor is one of the historic silver steel. I definitely should have mentioned this up front. Good to know on the C-135 though since I have one on order.

Originally Posted by PhatMan

bonusmarple,

I have a couple of C135 TIs that sometimes do feel a bit harsh after coming off the stones.

I use a CrOx pasted paddle, or a cotton hanger with TI Pate a Rasoir to smooth the edge; I usually do 5 laps, test & repeat if needed.

I find that once dialled in, the C135 edges last very well indeed.

The C135 blades do feel different on the face compared to my other carbon steel blades; not unpleasent, just different

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

i would second that ti rasoir paste will transform that edge .yes my ti silver wing does feel differant . mine is finished on coticule and is very smooth but differant. i use d the ti paste when i was struggling to get the smoothness and it works a treat , i use it on canvas strop and the rsults are very good. other than that i would try 15 back and forth strokes followed by 30 light strokes in normal x on coticule . i must admit it took me a while to get a good edge of mt silver wing and my ti la grelot . once i did they shave very well .

Originally Posted by gary haywood

i would second that ti rasoir paste will transform that edge .yes my ti silver wing does feel differant . mine is finished on coticule and is very smooth but differant. i use d the ti paste when i was struggling to get the smoothness and it works a treat , i use it on canvas strop and the rsults are very good. other than that i would try 15 back and forth strokes followed by 30 light strokes in normal x on coticule . i must admit it took me a while to get a good edge of mt silver wing and my ti la grelot . once i did they shave very well .

I have a plain c135 on order with Martin. Once he gets back from vacation, I will ask him to throw in the paste. Thanks to all for the suggestions.

maertin sent me a ti legrelot and he does an amazing job at honing . he finishes the edge on 10k naniwa and he starts with coticule . bart always hones his ti's on one layer of o.15 electrical tape using unicot he then adds another layer of tape to perform unicot edge . he says aftyer a thew shaves the edge is delicate , btittle and the edge chips very easily. unicot adds strenght to the edge . why don't you try unicot as mentioned i have and it realy worked and does'nt take long set bevel on one layer of tape then add another layer and do 20 laps on misty slurry and 60 laps on water nice light laps . bart says this alters the angle and makes for strong bevel and you get no chips etc. other than that do dilucot and then ti paste if you prefer traditional bevel.

if you take a look on ebay uk under razor strop you will see some little green pkts of ti paste it only £4

[QUOTE=gary haywood;630791] bart always hones his ti's on one layer of o.15 electrical tape using unicot he then adds another layer of tape to perform unicot edge . he says aftyer a thew shaves the edge is delicate , btittle and the edge chips very easily. unicot adds strenght to the edge . why don't you try unicot as mentioned i have and it realy worked and does'nt take long set bevel on one layer of tape then add another layer and do 20 laps on misty slurry and 60 laps on water nice light laps . bart says this alters the angle and makes for strong bevel and you get no chips etc. other than that do dilucot and then ti paste if you prefer traditional bevel.[QUOTE]





What is the difference????

I have read this over and over from Bart and others BTW, and honestly this has always bugged me... What is the difference, if I add a piece of tape at the end or add them at the beginning????
You and others are essentially saying that the .50-.75 of a degree change from one piece of tape is going to change the edge enough to make it stronger???? you are talking here about micron differences on the bevel...

When actual angle measurments on real razors range from 12 degrees to 25 degrees... This doesn't really make sense then does it???? In fact some razors the bevel angle actually changes from heel to toe...

Now if this were true and proved why do so many people swear by NO TAPE at all on razors. if the edge is made stronger by adding 1 layer on top of one other, what is the difference between one layer and none????

So what difference would it make to the edge of the razor if I started with two layers, or started with one, then only added the second for the last few laps the angle at the edge is the same....
Or used just 1 or 3 or 4 see what I am asking???

I think you all are deluding yourselves by thinking it is the tape and angle when it is actually the fact that you are taking your time and finishing the razor correctly....


My 2 pence


Gary, no offense intended to you at all, if it works then more power to ya, but I think it is working for another reason then what you are thinking....

Some of the things that stand out here to me...

1. What progression did you use to get to the finishers????

2. Why two stones to finish???

3. Both finishing stones you are using should be more than capable of producing comfortable shaves by themselves...

4. The fact that you are finding it "necessary" to use two finishers hints that you don't find the initial finish of either stone to be enough.. Which IME tells me that the initial bevel set - sharpen - polishing, progression is lacking...

5. One piece of honing advice you often see is that if your 8k level of honing (regardless of what that is) does not produce a good shave then more stones and more pastes are just a crutch.. I know that isn't what you wanted to hear, but it tends to be the truth...

6. TI's can be finicky on the bevel set, but IME I haven't ever noticed anything different about them in the higher grits...


Hope at least some of that helps...

+1 to this. Looking back on what I have went through...

1) If the razor is "sharp", but not smooth. You probably did not do enough work on the stones and used the pastes to try and cheat a bit.

2) I even made a thread about this... Put away all your finishing stones and pastes. Just shave off your 8k for awhile. Once you reach a point where you are getting good shaves off your 8k, you probably will not have this "sharp, but not smooth" problem any more.

3) I still consider myself a novice, take my advice with a grain of salt. I hone less razors in a month that a lot of people do here in a day.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Some of the things that stand out here to me...

5. One piece of honing advice you often see is that if your 8k level of honing (regardless of what that is) does not produce a good shave then more stones and more pastes are just a crutch.. I know that isn't what you wanted to hear, but it tends to be the truth...


Hope at least some of that helps...