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Thread: Shapton's & Charnley Forrest=Amazing

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  1. #1
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    The seller of my CF mentioned that you can add a bit of dish soap to your stone so that you don't have to hone at the sink & could also assist with removing some oil...if that's what you are after. Adding a light oil could only polish/smooth the edge even more, but that's just an opinion at this time.
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    Master of insanity Scipio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shooter74743 View Post
    The seller of my CF mentioned that you can add a bit of dish soap to your stone so that you don't have to hone at the sink & could also assist with removing some oil...if that's what you are after. Adding a light oil could only polish/smooth the edge even more, but that's just an opinion at this time.
    Shooter

    I have heard many say that oil gives a better edge, including respected honemeisters. I'm not sure why, but it may be that some hollows have a tendency to glide over the stone without any abrasive action what so ever, where oil provides more of a suction effect and allows the hone to work more effectively. I admit it provides a greater degree of feedback, although I do not know if it actually gives rise to a better edge.

    I have found that a light yet firm touch works well particularly with hollows (if using water soley) and it does take a while to become used to this hone utilising this technique. It provides little, but increasingly better feedback after 20 laps say, and takes experience with the stone to confidently use it this way.

    Basically oil makes it easier to use and I believe it can give the user a better control over the hone. I just dislike using it as can be impractical to clear up.
    Last edited by Scipio; 08-28-2010 at 11:48 PM.

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    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    I think the key to the oil is a "thin" coat. I did notice when I first oiled the blade and started using it that I had overoiled the stone. Simply put, I was hydroplaning the blade over the stone. It took about 10x, wiping the blade very time, to get the oil thin enough that I had any "feedback". I didn't use any pressure, only enough to keep the blade flat.

    I did just wipe down the CF and take a dorko razor to the CF with soapy water. Feedback felt like it was rougher than 16K, but actual scratch marks magnified by 16x loupe showed they were about the same. Maybe that's why the CF excels when you use it with a thin coat of oil. I will ahve to experiment more...
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
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    Master of insanity Scipio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shooter74743 View Post
    I think the key to the oil is a "thin" coat. ...
    Exactly that, I squeezed a few drops of oil over the Charnley (machine oil that came with some beard clippers) and spread it over the hone with my finger to apply a light coat. You don't want to use anymore than that.

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    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    My limited experience agrees 100% so far...
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

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    zib
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    Hey, If one of ya'll want to send me a Charnely, I'll give you my "expert" opinion"
    We have assumed control !

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    Disburden (09-03-2010)

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    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    If you are ever in the area you are more than welcomed to try it out...mine's not leavin my hands...
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

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    zib (09-02-2010)

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