Thread: Honing with tape question

I usually start with 1 layer for hollows or 3 layers for wedges, removing a layer until I end up with 1 layer on the 1k stone.
After 1k I change the tape and move on but I do not change any more.
I mo when you go up the grits the tape wear is minimal (may be this varies depending on which stones are used I do not know).

I have also tried the Duck Tape electrical and I find it is pretty much identical to 3M stuff but cheaper.

Originally Posted by mainaman

I usually start with 1 layer for hollows or 3 layers for wedges, removing a layer until I end up with 1 layer on the 1k stone.
After 1k I change the tape and move on but I do not change any more.
I mo when you go up the grits the tape wear is minimal (may be this varies depending on which stones are used I do not know).

I have also tried the Duck Tape electrical and I find it is pretty much identical to 3M stuff but cheaper.

And what is it that you are accomplishing with this???

It sounds like this process:


http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ged-blade.html

Honing a damaged blade - Straight Razor Place Wiki

Originally Posted by Lynn

And what is it that you are accomplishing with this???

Originally Posted by Lynn

And what is it that you are accomplishing with this???

Going from 3 layers of tape to 1 on a wedge?
It's my personal preference how to do it.

Originally Posted by mainaman

Going from 3 layers of tape to 1 on a wedge?
It's my personal preference how to do it.

It would have to be........

Personally, I think that reducing the layers of tape as you move through the hones is a complete waste of time & you're merely kidding yourself that the work is being achieved faster. You still have to remove the same amount of steel.

However, if a chap finds the whole process more acceptable in their mind to do it this way, that's up to them.

Is someone going to edit the Wiki to the effect that the process is a good way to pretend it's all happening faster than it really is?

We could recycle this one!

''This statement and the following Advantages/Disadvantages has been proved to be an opinion, not a fact, there are to many variables to deterimine if this is always true..''

This is great info guys...Jeff: thanks for posting

I use 3M tape and usually cut a piece (~4" long), lay it on the table (glue side up), position the spine over the middle of the tape and bring it down onto the glued side. Once stuck, I lift the tape/blade combo and finish the taping around the spine. This way, there's no stretching of the tape.

Originally Posted by ben.mid

Personally, I think that reducing the layers of tape as you move through the hones is a complete waste of time & you're merely kidding yourself that the work is being achieved faster. You still have to remove the same amount of steel.

However, if a chap finds the whole process more acceptable in their mind to do it this way, that's up to them.

Is someone going to edit the Wiki to the effect that the process is a good way to pretend it's all happening faster than it really is?

We could recycle this one!

''This statement and the following Advantages/Disadvantages has been proved to be an opinion, not a fact, there are to many variables to deterimine if this is always true..''

Your mixing two different processes here BTW...

Stefan has his way of doing things on wedges

The Wiki was taken and Wikified from an old thread of mine about fixing Damaged blades..

Slart assumed that was what Stefan was taking about, which he wasn't ....

Hence two totally different things here...

Sorry Glen, I was in mischievous mood.

Though I do find the that by starting with three layers, you may eliminate the chip faster, but you're then left with the problem of removing all the material to re-form the bevel. Just doesn't make sense to me.

this thread should be a "sticky"

The first time I taped a razor's spine for honing, I used Scotch tape, being ignorant of what was being used by others how hones will eat right through it There was some unusual honewear leftover.

I don't hone much, but when I have a wedge with a chip in it, I will raise the spine off the hone just a little, or use a couple of layers of tape, to restore a straight edge on the razor before laying it back down flat on the spine. It does seem to save some time, but I guess I'd have to restore hundreds or thousands of wedges both ways to be able to say that with more confidence. Whatever works I guess