Thread: Honing with tape question

So I've been working on the basics of honing for a little while and thought I'd try something new last night -- honing a blade with tape on the spine.

I've read enough about the pros and cons, I understand how the tape changes the geometry of the bevel, and so forth.

I started with a single layer of some very thin tape on the spine, with a razor in basically NOS/unhoned condition. I like to use a Naniwa 1k to set the bevel, then I use a BBW/coticule while diluting the slurry every twenty laps or so, and then finish on a CF.

Anyway, here's the stupid part -- about ten or twenty laps into the BBW, I noticed that I had completely "honed away" the layer of tape. There was still tape on the spine and on the blade itself, but where the spine contacts the hone, the tape was basically removed in one thin line.

And that makes a lot of sense too, because tape is a lot softer than metal and honing a piece of tape against a stone that is made to cut metal is going to result in the tape being removed very quickly, right?

So how the heck do you hone something with tape on the spine? And by that I mean, how do you hone without removing the tape entirely while you are honing? Special brand of extra-tough tape? Lifting the spine slightly to remove pressure from it while honing? I'm just guessing, but now that I've tried it the wrong way, I'm thoroughly confused!

Thanks.

1. use 3m electrical tape, honest there is a difference
2. NEVER lift the spine, EVER even if you read that BS at B&B, don't do it (sorry that was the stupidest thing I ever read about honing)
3. Change the tape after each level of honing, ie: after the bevel set after the sharpening and before the finisher...

4. During the bevel set it might take a change of tape depending on the stone...

Either you're using incredibly cr@ppy tape, or your using way too much pressure. I've honed through tape on the bevel setters, but never on a coticule, even when I was using it to set a bevel! Have a look at both the tape & the technique. One is most likely at fault.

Well, I wasn't using electrical tape, so maybe that's my first problem. And I wasn't replacing the tape after every level of honing, so the tape that I had in place just got worn away after a while.

Is there anything other than electrical tape that will work? I'm concerned about the thickness of electrical tape and also the fact that electrical tape seems to be highly variable in thickness depending on how hard you stretch it while you are pasting it down. At least when I use electrical tape on something, it seems like you can make it much thinner by stretching it while applying it. Doesn't that make it dicey to use for something requiring a precise thickness like honing? Or maybe I'm just overthinking this.

Use the 3M as Glen suggested, stretch the tape just enough so that there are no wrinkles, bubbles, etc. Change the tape after the one K or more often if there is a lot of work to be done. Once you've gotten past the 1k you shouldnt have to change the tape.

When i use elec tape,a gently pull it off the roll without stretching it,and cut it to length with a knife or some other sharp tool. And the tape takes a pretty good beating, but like glen said,it will have to be changed from time to time.

Originally Posted by JeffE

Is there anything other than electrical tape that will work? I'm concerned about the thickness of electrical tape and also the fact that electrical tape seems to be highly variable in thickness depending on how hard you stretch it while you are pasting it down.

Given the number that use 3m tape, I don't think the change in bevel angle is significant.

Also just don't stretch it more than enough to remove bubbles.

I used it just lately on the 1k for bevel set and it did not wear through. But I changed it on each step anyway.

There are lots of ways to tackle a problem, but here's my view.

The brand of electrical tape doesn't matter too much, but it has to be electrical tape. It may matter to the likes of Glen, who hone as a profession, but not to me.

I always try to avoid any stretching. I even cut off the tape that gets stretched by unrolling what I need. I also smooth the tape onto the spine, rather than stretch it.

I too also change the tape at the end of each stage, & sometimes during the bevel set.

I used it on all razors (3M one layer) for the first year I honed. I was afraid I'd cause too much spine wear if I didn't use it. Then the fact that Lynn didn't use it on anything but special cases bothered me so I experimented with not using tape. Now I only use it on Damascus blades or razors with decorated spines. Maybe on a razor with a deep chip until it is removed. I've only worn through tape on one razor and that was removing a deep chip with a 325 diamond plate. Nothing wrong with using tape. Tim Zowada uses it on his high end razors. I just got out of the habit and found it wasn't necessary for me.

Edit; Aside from the fact that 3M is high quality it is made in Minneapolis, MN. I would rather help someone in MN keep a job than someone in Beijing. YMMV

Thanks, guys, I will try again tonight -- good advice!