Results 1 to 10 of 14
-
09-13-2010, 12:42 AM #1
Grrrr.... losing this honing battle
I received this with much pleasure Friday. Cleaned it up with some steel wool and Flitz, and went to work Saturday AM honing. Stroke after stroke, lap after lap, put it down, came back to it, re-lapped my stones, put it down, came back to it, slept, ate, came back to it, etc. ...
This is a Halma 300 from Giesen and Forstoff, Solingen, 3/4" with virtually no wear. I really believe I was the first to put it on a hone, couldn't believe my good luck. But--------- I can't get a bevel on it. I'm close, but it seems impervious to my 1k bevel-setter. Look at the spine; there's still practically no wear after hundreds of strokes at 1k, and I'm not taping the spine. I really don't want to take it to my 200 stone, I'm afraid it will chip.
Any ideas?? Is this thing maybe stainless and harder than diamonds? My 1k King hone has never let me down before.Don't get hung up on hanging hairs.
-
09-13-2010, 12:57 AM #2
Are you leanin' on that thing yet?
Try some pressure to see what happens. Also, hit it with a marker on the bevel just to be sure, you never know with a new blade...
-
The Following User Says Thank You to joke1176 For This Useful Post:
stimpy52 (09-13-2010)
-
09-13-2010, 01:01 AM #3
You can try on my DMT1200 if you want.
-
09-13-2010, 01:01 AM #4
-
09-13-2010, 01:03 AM #5
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Location
- North Idaho Redoubt
- Posts
- 27,031
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 13245I honed a Helma last year I don't remember it being really hard but who knows...
You might try
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...rt-slurry.html
also I have this system when I hit a "Brick Wall" razor I change something.
Add tape / subtract tape
Do circles / do X strokes
Change hones for 20 laps
Back Hone 5 laps
Strop the razor
But change something upLast edited by gssixgun; 09-13-2010 at 01:19 AM.
-
09-13-2010, 01:13 AM #6
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- St. Louis, Missouri, United States
- Posts
- 8,454
- Blog Entries
- 2
Thanked: 4942The Tomorrow Method works pretty good sometimes as well.......
I can't see any wear on this thing. I would agree that a little pressure on the 1K might be the ticket.
Have fun,
Lynn
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Lynn For This Useful Post:
Utopian (09-13-2010)
-
09-13-2010, 01:13 AM #7
-
09-13-2010, 01:17 AM #8
thanks everyone
I'm not going to play any more tonight, but let me dig through these ideas. Dylan -- I'll be in touch.
Don't get hung up on hanging hairs.
-
09-13-2010, 01:18 AM #9
I have a King 1k waterstone , and it is a slow cutter compared to my Norton 1k . I haven't used the King ever since I got the Norton . You may want to get a 220/1k . Don't be afraid to use a lower grit hone such as a 200 or a 220 . Just keep the pressure light , and keep an eye on the edge . Once you have a decent bevel , go back to the 1k . Some razors have extremely hard steel , and can take quite a while to hone a proper bevel . I'm currently honing a Shumate professional , that is such a razor . I've restored another Shumate pro , that was just as tough . Two others I can think of is a Fredrick Reynolds , and a Morley . Don't give up , keep at it and you will get it done eventually .
Greetings , from Dundalk , Maryland . The place where normal people , fear to go .
-
09-13-2010, 09:27 AM #10
I have come across razors like this at times. I usually change the hone and my pressure. The options I have on hand are a 1k norton, 1k Chosera and my coti. The Chosera water only is usually my starting point, then slurry, then the norton and lastly the coti w/ slurry and the dilute method. I had one recently that needed to go to the coti w/ slurry. The latest batch of my blades all seemed to be extra hard. Let me know if yo and Dylan want to have a mini meet on this razor at the location of your choosing.
“If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)