Thread: Honing a TI C135

IMO, Unicot, dulicot, etc are hard enough as it is to use to get good results all the time never mind on a hard TI razor. I can set bevels with my coticule because it is fast but I wouldn't want to hone all the way through on one, it'd be a pain in the a** and cost me a lot of time. I go to my BBW after coticule and slurry for the bevel to add sharpness, this way I don't need to calculate how much water I am dripping off my finger is good enough or not for my honing. I then just go back to water on yellow coticule and then finish on an Escher with slurry.

I know you want to keep it simple but it really is good to have a norton 4/8k laying around in the background incase you need to hone differently.

Thanks for the comment. I've had very good experiences with both unicot and dilucot methods before. My main issue at the moment, is that I'm dealing with a new razor and a new stone. When I had my old coticule, I knew how it reacted to slurry, etc.. It will take some time before I can get the same level of comfort with this stone

With my coticule I had a very hard time doing anything like a dulicot method you are mentioning. My coticule is way too fast in slurry but then hardly does anything in water, making the dilution phase a long and painful process, that's why I abandoned it. I am sure you can learn to hone that way with your new one but it will take time.

Most of us on SRP advise with easier methods like progressions or one hone methods with Jnats.

Dups,

As I haven't (yet!) got a coti, I can't comment on using them for this, but the C135 TIs do hone very nicely on the Naniwa Superstones

They also respond very well to 0.5 micron diamond on felt.

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

Originally Posted by PhatMan

Dups,

As I haven't (yet!) got a coti, I can't comment on using them for this, but the C135 TIs do hone very nicely on the Naniwa Superstones

They also respond very well to 0.5 micron diamond on felt.

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

Nanaiwa stones are insanely fast compared to coticules.

I know that my coticule is capable of achieving a great shaving edge. I honed another one of my razors with it using the unicot method and it's a very nice shaver now. For some reason the C135 is just another beast altogether. I can get it to shave arm after heavy slurry but when I add the extra layer of tape to achieve the double bevel it won't pass the HHT test at all. Based on past experiences, I now know that my razor has to pass the HHT test to lead to a successful shave.

Originally Posted by Dups

For some reason the C135 is just another beast altogether.

Why yes that it is,,,

Ok lets see if I can help you out without the whole "Coticule is a magic stone" thing...

There are some razors that DO NOT play by the same rules, you just found one, the newer synthetics hones are designed to take on these super steels.. Your Shaptons and Naniwas in particular, in fact you would be hard pressed to get a better edge on a new TI than with a set of Naniwas SS's...

That being said you can sharpen it with your Coticule but it is going to be different than the other razors you have done... You could also sharpen it on the synthetics then finish on the Coticule if you like a Coticule finish...
But to expect a newly designed steel that is 4-5 Rockwell points higher than some of the older steels to sharpen the same is just not realistic... Like I said in my very first post you need to adjust to the steel ....

Yea I have an original silverwing and it certainly is different to hone. It took me quite a time honing to figure that out. Diamond at .5 does a good job on it. I didn't have all that much success with my Coticule or Escher.

Actually they did sharpen it but they gave the blade a very heavy feel. Changing the feel was the real problem.

Thanks for the comments guys! Should I maybe double the number of strokes usually necessary for most razors or?

We are awaiting your answer.....