Thread: Fast cutters

Although the Spyderco hones cost less they are not as effective as the Norton and a real pain to keep clean. There is also some special steps you have to perform before putting a razor to them.

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

My post got lost for some reason. I was thinking of getting one of those Spyderco ceramic hones. Would that do the trick?

The way I got this one close to being shave ready is by going circular w/ pressure on the bottom side of the 4k with the occasional pyramid just to see where I am. This was done for fast metal removal because the razor was really dull, so I needed to form the initial edge before going fine.

What would those steps be?

Edit: I took your suggestions to heart (used the 1k sandpaper with plenty of water, on top of the rough oilstone since it has a larger surface than the japs) and then I did a whole bunch of pyramids with decreasing amounts of pressure. It's ready for a shave test that will be performed tomorrow.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Be sure to wet the sandpaper, then you will not have to use any tape to hold the sandpaper down. It creates its own suction.

True, but it also curls after a while, in the direction of the paper grain. I don't like that.

Nenad

The edge feels ok and it shaves arm-hair but I can't get it to go anywhere near passing the hht. I'll give it another day of detailed honing, but if it doesn't work, I may have to set that blade aside and focus on more salvageable ones.

forget the 1000 grit you only use a 1000 hone if you have a super big chip in the razor...use a norton 4000/8000 on the 4000 side make small circular motions counter clockwise withblade facin towards you and circuar clockwise with blade facing away from you very lite pressure then do pyramid 3/3 1/5 1/5 then 10 strokes on codicule and then 60 laps on unpasted strop...wala

True...what has helped me is to keep the paper very wet. It is not a cure however.

Originally Posted by superfly

True, but it also curls after a while, in the direction of the paper grain. I don't like that.

Nenad

The Spyderco's have "high points" that will put chips in the edge of your razor. Ceramic hones are very hard. A person needs to lap this hone and also round over the edges. They will chip a razor very fast! I have had this happen to me.
I lapped them by rubbing one Spyderco against another. I do not know if sandpaper would be effective.

Hope this helps,

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

What would those steps be?

Edit: I took your suggestions to heart (used the 1k sandpaper with plenty of water, on top of the rough oilstone since it has a larger surface than the japs) and then I did a whole bunch of pyramids with decreasing amounts of pressure. It's ready for a shave test that will be performed tomorrow.

Before you go back to the hones maybe you shoould give it a shave test?

Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT

The edge feels ok and it shaves arm-hair but I can't get it to go anywhere near passing the hht. I'll give it another day of detailed honing, but if it doesn't work, I may have to set that blade aside and focus on more salvageable ones.

Thanks Randy. That's a great idea. I'll actually give it a few passes on the coticule (it just arrived, thanks X ) first though, since I'll be doing the same to my 2 shavers.

On that note, why did it come with some oil labeled "Oil 55/K for Original Arkansas Oilstone" (in German). It IS a coticule (yellow, relatively irregular shape, smooth surface, small blue veins, not noticeable to the touch). As far as I know, I'm either supposed to just pour water over it (doesn't require a soaking?) or work up a slurry with another stone.

I just poured water over it and honed my 2 shavers with it. 20 passes each but the stone was small (like 2x3.5") so it's ok. I'm impressed. The comfort level of the shave went way up. On a bad note, I made the lather so thin, it spilled over the scales, my fingers slipped and gave me a nasty nick on the jaw-line.