Thread: Bevel re-set

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*I was *reading some old posts and and found reference to "bevel reset". I understand that method is mainly used for reseting a bevel after breadknifing. But why couldn't someone just use the same method all the *time. Will the traditional method to setting a bevel (using one layer of tape or none at all) create a burr on something that dull? **

*I can *visualize what happens when three layers of tape are used for setting *that mini bevel. Then with tape removed the lower part of that bevel gets honed away while the very edge doesent touch the hone making a thiner overall bevel. **

Does this help especially thinner blades since they would bend ever so slightly at the very edge, even while using light to none *preasureat all?*

*so is my description of *what happens during a "bevel re-set" acurate?*
*can I use this method every time I set a bevel?
*
why couldent someone with an extremely dull blade i.e.*
Breadknife *just put a piece of tape on the spine and start a bevel. * **

** * * * Thx. Guys *

Resetting has been needed for most of the blades I've gotten. 'Sometimes because the previous owner used some method I didn't know or couldn't reproduce, or because I wanted to smooth out some uneven bevel and spine wear. The goal being to have a bevel that I can take to the higher grit stones and hopefully not have to ever do a bevel set again.

One blade appeared to have zero hone wear. I marked the bevel w/ felt marker, took 2 strokes on an 8k stone and it was cleanly and completely removed. 6 more strokes and I was off to the 12k, then finisher. I don't see them like this often.

I'm not sure what you were reading, but breadknifing a razor IS NOT a standard procedure for honing. It's only for razors with large chips or frowns; really, it's more restoranion than honing.

Different guys do their normal bevel setting in different ways. Personally, I don't use tape unless I have a lot of work to do.

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

I'm not sure what you were reading, but breadknifing a razor IS NOT a standard procedure for honing. It's only for razors with large chips or frowns; really, it's more restoranion than honing.

Different guys do their normal bevel setting in different ways. Personally, I don't use tape unless I have a lot of work to do.

Exactamundo

Bevel restting is not necessary when touching up a razor that is in use.
And 3 layers of tape is not for a mini bevel it is just a quicker,easier way of establishing the edge on restores. Unless you're talking Tim Zowada's method which is a different kettle of fish again.

As I have been learning to hone and getting better (arguably only slightly ), I have found that on some razors I had not initially set the bevel as well as I had thought. So for these, yes I reset the bevel (no breadknifing though - as already stated thats really only something you should need to do on a restoration, or maybe on something that someone has honed really really badly).

If the bevel isnt set well, the end sharpness of the razor will not be as good as it could be.


For other razors that I have honed recently, I just do a touch up when they need it. Havent had caused to reset bevel on razors in this state yet, but I am assuming at some point they will need it when touch ups no longer bring the razor to its expected state of sharpness.

Sorry guys, should have never said the B. word. I am refering to this. If you go down to step 2 and 3. How does using three layers of tape at the begining make it easier to set a bevel on something that dull.

Why not one layer?

I agree NO BREADKNIFING


Honing a damaged blade - Straight Razor Place Wiki

Just cause it's on the internet doesn't mean it's true or the only way to do something. You can use however many layers as you want. That's just the author's method. Personally, I use 1 layer for a lot of work; otherwise I use none.

Originally Posted by wedwards

For other razors that I have honed recently, I just do a touch up when they need it. Havent had caused to reset bevel on razors in this state yet, but I am assuming at some point they will need it when touch ups no longer bring the razor to its expected state of sharpness.

No, unless you damage your edge, you should not ever need to reset the bevel if you are regularly touching up the edge. The touch ups should maintain the bevel and edge indefinitely.

Originally Posted by Bloodwood

Sorry guys, should have never said the B. word. I am refering to this. If you go down to step 2 and 3. How does using three layers of tape at the begining make it easier to set a bevel on something that dull.

Why not one layer?

I agree NO BREADKNIFING


Honing a damaged blade - Straight Razor Place Wiki

This is a PERFECT example of taking the Wiki to the wrong place, that is a bastardization of two separate threads ...

Go to the bottom of the page read the original threads and you will find that Breadkinifing has no place in the Honers repertoire, it is a restoration technique...

Bevel setting should be done on any razor you are not absolutely sure of when you start honing that razor... now read above what Ron said, if you are sure of the edge then you are just touching up and no bevel set is needed

Originally Posted by Bloodwood

Sorry guys, should have never said the B. word. I am refering to this. If you go down to step 2 and 3. How does using three layers of tape at the begining make it easier to set a bevel on something that dull.

Why not one layer?

The answer you seek is actually the first point in Step 2
"Use 3 layers of electrical tape on the spine. This concentrates the honing to the edge."

One layer will have you honing on a larger area therefore much slower on something like a wedge & only a little slower on a hollow.

Think of it as sawing lumber you don't cut on the largest area you can to speed things up.

Again this is a restoration thing & not for regular honing & touchups