Quote Originally Posted by simpleman View Post
Lets see if i can put my thoughts into words. When taping a full hollow the edges of the tape are tucked in the hollow so you are honing on the taped spine. If you taped a wedge wouldn't you be honing on the edge of the tape and no the taped spine?
Tape is a tool. Like any tool use it where it makes sense.

If I think about it...
Tape protects the spine, raises the spine and can help clear
a sloppy transition at the junction where the blade meets the shank.
But tape is soft, flexible and interacts with the hone in odd ways.
Odd because it wears so much faster than steel.

In your case the tape would run down the face of the blade a lot
and raise the spine more than normal because of the geometry.
You could trim it to a very even band as a previous poster noted.

With the black marker test tape will make it obvious how the
line of the cutting edge lines up with the hones and may make
it easy to decide on the correct stroke. Test this with a fine
(+4k) hone.

With a wedge that you describe it may also make it quicker to
set a bevel and hone the edge to see if the steel is worth
more bother. But do not over do this because this false bevel
will eventually have to go. Go, because it will get hard to maintain
more than it being bad.

Using modern fast hones... including modern film on glass, just hone it up.
Set the bevel, and then finish with a progression to 8K or 10K or so.

My only close to a wedge blade responded very well to Woodcrafters
film on glass, 15micron, 5micron, 0.3 micron.... and now
a touch up on a 10K/12K hone keeps it very happy. YMMV.

I mention film on glass. With all the steel exposed to the hone
by a big wedge identical honing surfaces help a lot and reduces
the time spent. Once the bevel is set and matches a finishing
hone maintaining the edge for years is almost a snap -- old school
honing that tended to let the hone dish concentrates wear on the spine and
the edge... and as long as the edge was never abused this would
work for a lifetime.