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Thread: Charnley forest slurry stone
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02-11-2011, 08:53 PM #1
Never tried with oil. I would like but it seems too "sticky"
I tried the naguras but slurry is different because it allways come from the nagura. With a tomo nagura the slurry comes from the CF (the same for the DMT option). I suppose is the same principle as when we use a bout of escher on a bigger escher... but I've never seen bouts of CF....
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02-11-2011, 10:21 PM #2
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02-11-2011, 11:00 PM #3
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Thanked: 67I'm firmly in the "start with a very light slurry and dilute to water" camp. My Charnley is quiet, hard, and smooth, just like a cheerleader I knew in Gainesville back in the 80's named Enid, and I found that, like Enid, it needs a bit of self-love to get started. After my Coti I rub a Charnley SS on it a few times (again, like Enid) and find that it responds with a bit of noise and a smooth edge, once again, like Enid. After I hose down the Charnley, like I did Enid, it finishes off smooth as silk (must I say it again?)
That's all I've got to say.
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02-11-2011, 11:38 PM #4
I am sorry Mark but I am not understanding something here. So did you rub Enid with the coti or the CF? Either way she sounds like a wonderful girl!
It is easier to fool people than to convince them they have been fooled. Twain
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Disburden (02-12-2011)
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02-12-2011, 12:11 AM #5
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02-12-2011, 12:29 AM #6
I don't see any need to use a slurry at that stage in the game. Take your time, enjoy the ride.....I have a Charnley, 6x2 or so...I use a thin coat of oil, no slurry...
We have assumed control !
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02-12-2011, 01:21 AM #7
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Thanked: 1936Ok, you have received advice from one of the most knowledgeable hone guys in exhistance and he recommends oil. Guess what, I do too. If you use a oil that is too thick, your blade will literally hydroplane over the stone doing very little to the edge. I first started out with 3n1 oil...it was too thick. I talked to Lynn (another real knowledgeable guy) and he mentioned he used sewing machine oil. I tried it and it was thinner than the 3n1 oil and worked wonderfully, bringing out what the CF was meant for. I have just honed a blade using Kroil and it was even better, maybe not better, but faster...for one blade. Kroil is thinner than the sewing machine oil. I'm out of blades to hone at the present. I know the sewing machine oil works very well and you should try it and forget about the rest for a while.
Long story short is you should learn what works best with the stone by listening to the pro's as many of us do, then once you have learned your stone try the experiments. Sure shaves a heck of a lot of time. I can tell you from experience that slurry (nagura, thuri, or CF) with water on a CF doesn't work like oil...period and end of discussion/my rant. I know this because I didn't listen...get where I'm going with this?Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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02-12-2011, 01:59 AM #8
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Thanked: 67
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02-12-2011, 02:50 AM #9
Thanks to you all for your answers.
After reading I understand Oil is the way. We must allways learn from those who have tried before.
But we can allways experiment other options after well known the stone and I want to try this pnk slurry too.
I will post some pics as soon as I found how to do it.
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02-11-2011, 11:50 PM #10
zhivago;
Any pictures of your CF? We like to see too. You can experiment anyway you like with your stone. CF is novaculite like Turkish oilstones and Arkansas stones. I have used a DMT 325 plate to create a pink slurry on my CF. This pink slurry tends to make my razors edge toothy and a little harsh. Here is my CF and novaculite stones. Most stone hounds don't like wasting to much slurry down the sink off these $$ stones. I choose to use a light weight cutting oil on mine and it does not "clog" stone. Certain razors respond better on novaculite finishers. Hope this helps.
Mike
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