Thread: Honing Question

I'm still new to honing but I am able to get my daily razors sharp and giving a quality shave. I have one razor that was my first razor and a problem from day one. I have accumilated a variety of hones, Norton 220/1000 and 4000/ 8000, a couple Jnats and a couple cotcules. I've been practicing on all of them useing different methods I learned here and starting to get nice result.
Back to the problem, I have this one razor I cant get shave ready. It's become my practice blade for new methods. It had a frown so I decided to start from scratch per Wiki instruction and bread knife the frown out. I think the blade may be warped because of the hone wear and that might be what caused the frown.
After bread knifing I started with the norton 220, then I went to the 1k. I've been using the TPT and also I put it under a light with a mag and look for flat spots. From the end to about an inch down the blade when I put it under a light I get a reflection indicating flat spots. Looking side angle I see no jagged edge or chips. I have done a couple hundred X strokes, I've tried circles, light preasure and heavy pressure in that area on the 1k and can't get rid of the reflection. The rest of the blade seems ready to move on to the 4k. I'm officially stumped on what do do next.
Any insight would be appreciated

I'm a little confused. Are you saying that the bevel is reflective and calling that a problem? The bevel should be reflective.

No, when I look straight down on the blade and slightly tilt it back and forth under a light I get a reflection. I saw this technique on wiki to check for flat spots you can't see by eye.

Honing is the conversion of a "U" shaped edge, which will reflect light head on, into a "V" shaped edge, which cannot reflect light head on. If your edge is reflecting light in this way, then you have not finished setting the bevel.

So, keep doing what I'm doing or go back to the Norton 220?

This is the harm of breadknifing. I don't know of any reason to ever breadknife a blade perpendicular to the hone, as it just creates more work and more steel removal . Yes, you're going to have to continue to work on the bevel until that reflective region has been converted from a "U" to a "V" and you can use either the 220 or the 1k, but you might as well use the 1k with pressure.

Have you tried the rolling x stroke? You mention that there is only a portion of the blade that does not have a complete bevel. Maybe this will work.

I usually start at the 220, and I have a complete bevel before I move to the 1k. I use my 1k to ensure that it's entirely complete, watching the water. As soon as I start to undercut the water, I move up.

This seems to work for me.

i have been always against using 220 grit for setting bevel.
Personally never set bevel below 1k grit stone.
it is just too much metal removing . I don't think it is advisable to use lower then 1k stone and set the bevel specially if you are new to honing.
1k takes time but avoids mistakes. i choose to loose time then making mistake.
If you have been honing for years that is a lot different. you will know when to stop .
hope this helps.

IME the hone wear associated with a frown is heaviest in the center of the spine graduating out and becoming less toward the heel and point. The honing technique, usually with heavy pressure, I assume, is the cause.

Here is the 1961 barber manual excerpt from the SRP Wiki help files. It is a PDF file on honing and stropping. Good instruction on proper honing with illustrations to show a frown and a blade with a slight smile and how to attain the desired profile through correct honing technique.

Honing is a complicated art. This is restoration honing. Updates after this will be easier.

I'm just providing some support!!