Thread: getting out micro chips with a coticule

well the title pretty much asks the question.
I am wondering how to remove micro chips and since I screwed up the last round of honing due to I guess both inexperience and too much pressure does any one have any pointers ?
Yes I have read extensively the wiki and the .be site.

thank you in advance.

I may try the Coti with just water to begin. I figure its best to start with the least amount of prep on the highest "grit", avoiding any work that my not need to be done. If this doesn't work, then consider working up a light slurry, and progressing to water.

Two questions. 1. What (if any) magnification are you seeing these micro-chips under?

2. What brand of razor: Sheffield, Solingen, other?

Stubear gave me some advice concerning hones and razors. He felt that Sheffield's responded better to natural hones, than they did to synthetics (such as the Norton's). I'm telling this short story because I had some micro chipping develop on one of my wedges, due to playing too much with the synthetics. I used the Coti and now it shaves lovely.

Hope this helps a bit. I'm also looking forward to what other people say....this is interesting. Thanks for posting this.

max,
I don't know the metal as it was a razor made long ago by an American company and it hasn't any markings stating whither its Sheffield of solingen.

as to the magnification i am using the finger scope I am using says its 60x .
tonight, because last time I tried using my cotis I guess I was using too much pressure to try and rid myself of noted micro chips and ended up getting a really harsh feeling edge ( sharp but harsh ) the bevel I recon is about right as it pops arm hairs ( could be wrong about that as an indicator as well due to my newness at honing.
still have the micro chips , they are on the bottom half of the blade nearer the heel.

ok, so now you're questioning the bevel too.

I would work up a good slurry, and make 10 passes with no pressure to even out the bevel. just the weight of the razor. rinse the blade, and make sure it pops arm hair all along the entire blade, heel to toe.

rinse the stone, re-surry, and hone. start with a good slurry, 15 passes, dilute with a couple drops, 15 passes, etc. until you are on clear water. rinse the stone and razor, clear water now....30 passes. strop on leather, no pressure, test shave. keep your shave prep and lather the same as normal.

each coti works differently, so these numbers may be high or low, but may be used as a starting point.

the bevel is key. help to reduce the variables by ensuring that the bevel is set correctly.

hope this helps.

Not questioning the bevel, that looks fine.
I only put that in there to try and include as much information as one may need to give solid advice.
If I had a USB microscope I would put pics up but alas..

Maxi, is giving you the right advice, I would do 10-20 laps or those pigtail stokes with a light slurry, and then dilute to clear water..

The only other trick you might try is to Strop 50 laps on linen first then do the laps...

I recently spotted these vids, maybe they will help you tackle those micro chips. In these vids gssixgun mentions the slurry and diluting an he mentions how to tackle certain rough spots on the bevel.

Hope it helps.

ok i will say couple words But
please read don't do it until your early attempts fails.
1 There is 3 types micro-chippings
first is
You hone blade to the level to it is maximum sharpness but you were perfectionist and didn't stop honing on time and you continued edge gets week and start to brake down.
result =microchipping
Next is
You have not set the bevel begin with.
This is not real micro-chipping.
when you check the edge under the loop you will see some small chips hanging from the edge they are usually vvvvvv shape . usually will be toward to heel mostly toward to tip of the blade(specially if you have smile blade)
experienced honer resolve this issue by doing very very soft 1 or 2 strokes breadknifing on the hone
(i personally would not advise to you to do so.this will confuse you more)
Next and last one is
your finishing stone is synthetic hone.
you know what you are doing but you using more pressure then you should on finishing stage.
Result is chipping. feeling harsh shave.
Now what i think about your situation without knowing your honing,hones etc
i would guess you have problem similar = 2.which is setting bevel correctly and moving from one grit to next not on time.
hope this helps.

In general how you resolve microchiping ?
basically go to 4k level and move forward . this should fix the problem.

If you are going to use the coticule, raise a little slurry (not much you can see with the eye that's too much) and work on that for a while and check the edge in a scope of some kind, the chips should be smoother after some strokes.

Like Sham said it sounds like the bevel is not set, I doubt you "over honed" on a coticule unless you were using a ton of pressure on the edge like you would honing a knife on a coticule.