Thread: Bevel is wider on one side?

First off this blade was an ebay purchase.....I have a 4k/8k set up w/ no 1k. The edge seems to lay flat the whole way across on one side, the other side doesn't (lays down at the heel lifts toward the toe?). The heel is sharp to about the middle of the edge, then becomes very dull. Idea's on how to go about correcting this?

Originally Posted by Trimmy72

First off this blade was an ebay purchase.....I have a 4k/8k set up w/ no 1k. The edge seems to lay flat the whole way across on one side, the other side doesn't (lays down at the heel lifts toward the toe?). The heel is sharp to about the middle of the edge, then becomes very dull. Idea's on how to go about correcting this?

warped blade.
Use circular motion hone it and make the all edge sharp.
There is no way to correct it permanently.
(if small warping you may hone it out-spine enough to fix the problem)

Start out with some black marker and paint the very edge of the blade. Do a couple of strokes in your usual method and see if the marker is uniformly removed. If not you will have to adapt your stroke to include all of the edge. Sometimes heel leading at a 45 degree angle can do it other times you might need a rolling x if the blade is out of whack. Go to the Wiki honing section and check out the rolling x.

+1 to the responses already posted. It's tough to hone a blade that has been honed by someone else. There strokes are not the same as yours. If you follow the steps already laid out you will be able to get the edge back.

that's less likely a warped blade and more likely that you didn't lap your new sharpening stone. Stop sharpening and get some 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper. if your blade still doesn't sit flat after 10 minutes of lapping your new stone, then consider other alternatives

Originally Posted by daflorc

that's less likely a warped blade and more likely that you didn't lap your new sharpening stone. Stop sharpening and get some 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper. if your blade still doesn't sit flat after 10 minutes of lapping your new stone, then consider other alternatives

I'm missing something here....

If there aren't any irregularities in the blade how does the flatness of the stone affect the way the blade sits on the stone (relative to a one side vs the other comparison). Isn't it concave or convex the same amount whether the face or the back of the blade is resting on it?

To be clear, I'm 100% in favor of lapping a new, old, or in-between stone. I just don't see how it applies to this situation.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Start out with some black marker and paint the very edge of the blade. Do a couple of strokes in your usual method and see if the marker is uniformly removed. If not you will have to adapt your stroke to include all of the edge. Sometimes heel leading at a 45 degree angle can do it other times you might need a rolling x if the blade is out of whack. Go to the Wiki honing section and check out the rolling x.

+1 To this, but I suggest using a BLUE or RED marker. Blue wavelength light travel's faster and is registered more easily by the human eye. Red's not bad either. Black is harder to see unless you have a nice BRIGHT background, and then is the black you see the shadow of the underside of the blade, or marker line? Blue sharpies work well.

Originally Posted by daflorc

that's less likely a warped blade and more likely that you didn't lap your new sharpening stone. Stop sharpening and get some 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper. if your blade still doesn't sit flat after 10 minutes of lapping your new stone, then consider other alternatives

Originally Posted by Bill S

I'm missing something here....

If there aren't any irregularities in the blade how does the flatness of the stone affect the way the blade sits on the stone (relative to a one side vs the other comparison). Isn't it concave or convex the same amount whether the face or the back of the blade is resting on it?

To be clear, I'm 100% in favor of lapping a new, old, or in-between stone. I just don't see how it applies to this situation.

Right and right, BUT no matter how consistent your strokes, you physically cannot hone the back side of the blade exactly the same as the front side...it's physically impossible. As a result, a curl at one end of the stone, or a slight warp could either one give the impression of what you're experiencing.

Now, honing RAZORS I'm no expert, but I'd suggest using the marker trick to figure out where/how the blade is contacting the stone, AND lapping your stone just to be double sure it's perfect.

Originally Posted by Bill S

I'm missing something here....

If there aren't any irregularities in the blade how does the flatness of the stone affect the way the blade sits on the stone (relative to a one side vs the other comparison). Isn't it concave or convex the same amount whether the face or the back of the blade is resting on it?

Bill: assuming they're aren't any irregularities in the blade, if you have a lumpy stone, the high points in the stone will take off more material faster and neglect the lower areas, leaving you with a razor with an uneven bevel.
You'll be able to hear it in a pass...it'll be a smooth, grinding sound....then in one part of the stone it'll show more resistance and you'll hear a louder, nastier noise... uneven pressure between heel and toe will give uneven bevel wear as well.

Originally Posted by Trimmy72

... The edge seems to lay flat the whole way across on one side, the other side doesn't (lays down at the heel lifts toward the toe?). The heel is sharp to about the middle of the edge, then becomes very dull...

If the blade is warped, it won't lay flat on either side IMO

Making me think the stone is not flat and needs lapping


Also, I encountered a situation which sounds identical to this one, and the mistake I made was I didn't lap my norton before starting to hone on it. After a few minutes, I had the same problem Trimmy had, and realized it needed a lapping.

but, we may all be confused as to what the actual question is:


1. A razor has 2 faces, like the cheeks on your face: Left and right, and your nose is the edge. Sides of your nose are the bevel (like my analogy?


On one cheek of the razor, is the bevel uneven? OR, is the bevel wider on one cheek, and narrower on the other cheek/face?

If the bevel is uneven on one side/cheek/face of the razor, we're looking at warping or stone needing a lapping.

If we're talking about different sized bevels on each cheek, that's a good question that I hope someone who knows the answer can tell us