Results 11 to 20 of 24
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06-17-2011, 06:17 PM #11
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- Mar 2011
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Thanked: 46Tommorow I will start honing this razor and I will report with pics after I finish it.
Thx to all of you who write your recommendations.
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06-17-2011, 06:24 PM #12
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Thanked: 2591I looked more closely at the pic, and the spine does not look that as symmetric.
SO I would tape and work like that, use magic marker to look how the progress is going and change tape often.
If you have to fix a spine, in general just hone with no tape until you get full contact between bevel and stone.Stefan
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06-18-2011, 04:24 PM #13
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- Mar 2011
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- Croatia
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Thanked: 46After almost 5 hours I finish the blade. Frown is gone in hystory
So, I honed as follows:
1. I lift the spine for about 30 degrees and did circle moves (it took almost 1 hour on Naniwa 1k)
2. after that I try to set bevel with 2 tape layers but then problem start, it was not possible to do that, obviously the problem was in spine wear so I decide to move all tape and continue without tape
3. after almost 2 hours the bevel was set (on Naniwa 1k, unfortunatelly I do not have coarser stone and I know that everything would be less paintfull with coarser stone), finally razor was able to shave arm hairs
4. after that I did one cutting move over the glas and continue with Coticule
5. stroping and test shaving
After all I can say that today was a funny day and I like Sheffield Stell more and more.
I try to make photo of the blade but unfortunatelly my photo skills are miles far from my honning skills.
Once more time thanks to all who give their advices yesterday.
Btw., Mainaman, yes the spine wear is pretty uneven and more than 1/16" but now after all it's possible to hone razor flat on the stone (there is no need for some special strokes).
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06-18-2011, 04:28 PM #14
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- Jan 2008
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- Rochester, MN
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Thanked: 3795Given that you did not trash the spine after those hours of honing, I have to wonder, did you use any pressure while setting the spine?
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06-18-2011, 05:17 PM #15
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- Mar 2011
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Thanked: 46The spine was in pretty bad condition before I start any honing job. It was worn unevelly both sides. I use some pressure but not so much, so I think that hours of honning do not affect the spine.
Btw. most of the time I try to set bevel with added tape (I do not have idea why it was not possible to set bevel with added tape, I suppose that Naniwa 1k was to fine for removing lots of steel after 30 degrees removing frown). When I remove tape the bevel was set in less than 30 minutes.Last edited by KING2011; 06-18-2011 at 05:23 PM.
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06-18-2011, 05:23 PM #16
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Thanked: 3795Keep in mind that when the goal is to remove a lot of steel, pressure is your friend. Pressure is bad on the high grit hones but on the lower grits, don't be afraid to push down. It might have saved you a couple hours of your life!
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The Following User Says Thank You to Utopian For This Useful Post:
recurvist22 (06-19-2011)
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06-18-2011, 05:47 PM #17
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Thanked: 2591
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06-18-2011, 07:05 PM #18
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Thanked: 46
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06-18-2011, 07:10 PM #19
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- Mar 2011
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- Croatia
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Thanked: 46Yes, I am on your side 100%.
In past I used one layer of tape to correct bevel or to hone out chip but that's tottaly different story from this today when I need to remove much more steel to set bevel.
In that case tape wears much more faster than steel and it's very hard to keep the same angle no matter how fast I change weared tape with new one.
That's reason why setting bevel without tape took less than 30 min.
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06-19-2011, 04:53 AM #20