Thread: My razors won't get sharp...

Originally Posted by THG

Not at all. When I said "built in jig," I just meant that you lay the razor down on the hone, and the spine and bevel sets the angle for you. The "angle jig" is "built in."

Good. Sometimes it's good for a guy to be wrong.

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

If the scales are positioned too far forward (blade closing) the weight of the scales ADD to the pressure against the edge when honing. A big, easy thing to overlook. Push the scales back (blade more open) so that the torque on the edge is less. This will help ensure less pressure is applied when honing.

Yes, I do hone with the scales about 180°. Otherwise, I find that the balance is not good.

Alright, so I took out my microscope and had a look at the edge. Everything looks very uniform in most places, but there are some spots with microscopic chips in the edge. I don't know why these aren't gone by now, since I've spent hours and hours and hours at this.

But at least things are coming along a lot better than before. After stropping, I can split a hair with blade towards the tip or heel, but not as easily in the middle. Shaves are also more comfortable.

I think maybe I just need a bit more time on the 8k hone. I'll have to invest in a 12k or higher later on.

Thanks for your help.

I'm going to guess that the "spots with microscopic chips in the edge" are toward the middle of the blade. If that is true, and if it is cutting better toward the toe and the heel, I'm also going to guess that you are not keeping the blade flat in the honing stroke. If you have the scales at 180 degrees, it is a good practice to cradle the smaller two fingers under the blade. That helps you keep it flat during the stroke.

Also, if you have even microscopic chips, then you don't yet have a bevel. If that is the case, then going to 8K misses the point. You should instead go to 4K and if that doesn't remove the chips and get you a bevel, then it's on to 1K. Only do the honing the blade requires, so start at 4K. Another way to check for a proper bevel is to look at the blade under a strong study lamp. If you see any "glinting", reflections from the edge itself, then your bevel is not yet complete.
If you are close, then 20 or 30 circle strokes should get you there, followed by some (flat) X strokes.

There can be any number of reasons for this, but consider that different steel, grinds,ht, included angle, etc,etc, can respond in any way to any hone combination.
This considered I think a DMT may not be the best choice of bevel setter for a razor, great for a knife though which intrinsicly are a bit toothy in comparison.
I have had very chipy edges from a DMT which requires a lot of smoothing especialy on the higher Rockwells.
These days I prefer to use the Naniwa chosera 1K to set razor bevels which gives very nice clean straight edges at 100X on most razors, the scratch pattern is very soft and this will pop arm hairs almost if not above the skin. I was put onto this by Gary Haywood and he advises in some cases going straight to finish like a medium to fast coticule water only using half(or chisel) strokes followed by x strokes.
I've tried this and it works remarkably well. A good stropping or a little paste has given me some stunning shaves.
Just my 2 cents worth, and somthing to consider??
Further to this I would assume the level of skill to be as it should be, on those finishing strokes there should be no pressure on the blade.
As that edge becomes increasingly delicate the edge must remain flat on the hone and in constant contact.

Good luck
Joe

So how does one make sure his honing stone is flat.....am I to use a sander...if so what grit....I wonder if my hones are flat the blade part is not even across.....quite sharp but not even.........and I am wondering if they are oil hones (use only oil right!!!)

Originally Posted by TDITim

So how does one make sure his honing stone is flat.....am I to use a sander...if so what grit....I wonder if my hones are flat the blade part is not even across.....quite sharp but not even.........and I am wondering if they are oil hones (use only oil right!!!)

Three standard methods:

. . . a coarse "flattening stone" (Norton makes them)

. . . a coarse diamond-coated plate (DMT 325)

. . . a sheet of 400-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper on a glass plate or marble/granite tile (what I've used).

For any one, do the flattening under running water if possible.

The Wiki has discussions of all including the "pencil test" for flatness.

Charles

Originally Posted by TDITim

So how does one make sure his honing stone is flat.....am I to use a sander...if so what grit....I wonder if my hones are flat the blade part is not even across.....quite sharp but not even.........and I am wondering if they are oil hones (use only oil right!!!)

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...ing-101-a.html

This was invaluable to me and probably many others.

Ok, thanks
How long does it take on the 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper.....I have been doing it for a while and it is getting there but I have a feeling it may be a while more. I have a small dip in the middle. But this is definately the reason I have uneven where on my blades and they are not sharp consistantly.

Well, I guess it depends on the severity of the 'dip'. Just follow the procedure outlined in Hone Lapping 101 and you'll get there... shouldn't take too long. You might need to change to a new sheet of paper if progress seems to have slowed, or stopped. I used a few sheets on my initial session. After that touch ups are done in minutes.