Thread: Tape

To tape or not to tape is one of those perennial debates: I think when I first joined there was a topic on it, and I am sure that the day I pop my clogs there will be a topic on it.

On most decent razors the change induced in the "proper" or "natural" blade geometry by adding a single layer of standard electrical tape is minimal (you can do the math yourself - there are threads with the correct trigonometry formulae if you search for them), though having said that if you use tape you do need to keep using it on subsequent hones unless you are prepared to fiddle around, as I think was mentioned in an earlier post. However, such a slight angle change is more than compensated for by flexible strop, so you do not need to tape a "hone-taped" razor when you strop it on leather. I've seen arguments where that includes leather paddle strops - not having a paddle strop I cannot say from first-hand experience on that one, but if there is some give in the leather I do not see why it would not be true.

Personally, I tape every standard razor - my own and the ones I do for money. Some out-of-whack geometries can sometimes benefit from having the spine honed, but I think that is another topic all together. As long as you know it was taped there is no issue. I do it more out of habit than anything else. I think it is a purely personal choice.

Just pick a side and go with it.

Never look back...

James.

Originally Posted by Jimbo

Just pick a side and go with it.

+1 there are ways of compensating with tape so you can bevel set with tape then hone without tape, you can hone all the way thru with or without tape etc etc but at the end of the day, everyone can tell you how they do it, and you may not be able to make it work for you. you just have to find your own way that works then use it.

Thanks for all the advice, well thought out, Latin based medical terms and all! I've picked a side and went 'with'. Main reason was the excessive amount of wear to which I subjected my chosen razor. I do understand the plusses and minusses though of both methods. I now very much understand how little pressure is needed, and also how focussed you need to be...

then you are on your way to becoming a great honing master!

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

then you are on your way to becoming a great honing master!

Oh, I'm already there, just ask me, I'll tell you. Seriously though, I concentrated my little heart out yesterday afternoon and it ended up quite a poor shave this morning. Sort of like a dullish bic that you've used for a month. When I say "you've" I don't mean YOU, I mean ME. Not sure what to do now, back to the 8k for 5 laps or so? Just the Shapton 16k for about 5? Both???

I use an alternative strategy, uncommon here. This is what I would do. I would do 20 circular passes on the 8k, followed by 20 passes with an x-pattern, and use a little pressure. Then, I would do 10 light passes on the 8k, x-pattern, as light as you can master. This part is hard because you can screw the whole thing up here, so go easy. try not to go too slow though, because momentum can help your stroke.

Finally, I would do about 20 passes on the 16k.

I would let a strop and a little graphite handle the rest, but that's another story for a different thread.

If all that fails I assume you have a bevel issue. Then Im a little stuck; it gets really complicated after that. Words won't work. I would need to do a full evaluation. The easy answer after that is do " more 4k ", but it's probably more difficult than that. At that point you need help, because you need to start applying reverse pressure to counteract the original mistakes.

Oh great, thanks AF. I might do this tomorrow night or even on the weekend. One time there on the 16k the blade dug in a bit. I read something about that the other day. Maybe I stuffed it up then? I'll give this a whirl and see what happens. Thanks a lot...