Thread: Tape

I've read a bit about tape and no tape and understand the positives and negatives. For me, I feel I'll hone without tape, unless I need to go < 4k and I doubt I will (I won't be restoring razors, just maintaining). My question is, if I wish to refresh an edge where tape was used, by refreshing on a Shapton 16k with out tape am I just polishing the sides of the edge and not actually sharpening the edge? If I wish to hone all my razors without tape, can I keep trying to refresh the edge with the 16k or do I need to go back to reset the bevel with the 4 or 8k on those I've bought where tape was used to set the bevel?

if you refresh an edge where tape was used right the way thru the original honing, without significant pressure then yes, use tape i guess.

However, what i have decided is that i'm just going to keep a razor the way it came to me it it was shave ready in the first place. the only time i do my taping is if i'm restoring an edge from scratch. I do what i do because it's the easiest way for me, but i'm not going to take a perfectly good razor and start taping or vice versa etc if it doesn't need it, if you know what i mean.

Yep, if you start with tape you have to stick with it.

You can set the bevel on a 1k with tape, then remove the tape and do about 20 strokes to correct for the removal of the tape, then continue on the 4k. That'll work as a way to keep spine wear to a minimum.

But you can't chop and change, for example by honing with tape and then touching up without tape, that won't work.

IMO the best thing to do is pick a choice and stick with it. That way you won't get confused about what you're doing!

I always tape because I hate the look of spine wear, that's really the only reason. I therefore use tape when I touch up the blade, but I don't use it when I strop.

Carl,

Yes, you are correct. You may not have the skills yet to reset the bevel. I highly recommend that you update the razors using tape, for now.

Thanks for replying, esp when I see there's quite a few threads on this (sorry, I should have had a better look). Seems I should have used tape, really. Like AFDavis said, I actually don't have the skills yet! I just looked closely at the razor I was honing and it's now got a sad and massive amount of hone wear on the spine. I don't hink I had any idea what 'no downwards' pressure means, even though it's pretty obvious. I think maybe I was honing the razor like it was my pocket knife. Oh well, we live and learn...I DO think I can work this out, though. I'd be massively chuffed if I can learn to hone really well...

Hi Carl,

Here's the habit I'm getting into: The first time I hone a razor that's new to my collection, I hone it without tape all the way from 1k through to finish, and take the time to be sure each hone has smoothed out the previous hone's scratch marks. That way I get the same polish on the spine that I've got on the edge. I just like that line of high polish on the spine. After that I'll use tape for touch ups.

If it's someone else's razor I'd use tape, in case they care about the look of spine wear, like Stubear.

I think I've changed my mind and will go with tape. Guess it's no big deal really and saves on the EXCESSIVE spine wear I dished out to my Kronenberg!

By taping and monitoring with a 'scope you are given additional incentive to pay attention to the importance of adequate pressure, not excessive pressure, because you will be punished for excess pressure by honing away at the opposite edge of the bevel, instead of the bevel and the all-important shaving edge.

With a razor that you know has been honed "naked" you can refresh effectively forever without the tape, once you've learned how little metal removal of the spine an appropriate refreshing entails. The Wapienica I got pre-honed "naked" has a new edge (mine) with a natural hone and a natural "bout" slurry, no spine protection needed because it was all done at fine grits, hence no concern about osteopenia (get it?).

If I wanted to remove the chip at the heel that some Polish guy (or the factory worker) made in my beloved Wapi, I'll tape, remove the metal till all is clear, then remove tape and reset the bevel to the correct angle for a naked edge's angle, then proceed to move up the grits till it's a beautiful shaver once more! However, if the chip is already so shallow that simply taping and honing at the new bevel removes the chip by default than.. all I have to do is move back down with no more work than making the new taped bevel, removing taped bevel, then moving up the grits. This is where microscopes are invaluable for not wasting time, effort, and metal.

P.S. my first "natural" edge is a real nice shave! Thanks Randy!

Might as well throw this in here. One of the problems with tape is removing the tape residue once the tape is removed. It has been offered here elsewhere that the tape itself can be used to remove the residue, and that is true. One way I've used to reduce the residue is to press the tape against a towel before placing it on the spine. That limits the amount of residue applied to the blade, making removing it easier. If you're going to use tape, and I do, you might as well do it right.

Just a honing hint Carl.
Whilst "some" pressure is advised in a raw bevel set you'd be surprised at how the weight of the razor with a minimal applied torque will focus the abrasion at the edge & not the spine.