Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 22
  1. #1
    Junior Member gdgross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    20
    Thanked: 0

    Default Is this blade salvageable?

    Took my wostenholm sheffield frameback to work today and had a peek under the microscope. The blade has all kind of pock marks and pitting, some of which manifest themselves in the edge.

    See the picture, probably that hole in the edge is simply a pit in the metal that got ground down and now it's a gap in the edge.

    With this in mind, do you think I'll be able to get this razor shave-able? I'm new at all of this, but I'm a relatively quick learner and good with my hands. I fear that I'll get past this edge with some honing only to find more problems with the next set of pits. You can see in the picture that there are all kinda of pits in the surface of the metal.

    Thanks!
    Geoff
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  2. #2
    < Banned User >
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    miami,fl
    Posts
    577
    Thanked: 69

    Default

    i think it is.... *(but what do i know)

  3. #3
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Idaho Redoubt
    Posts
    26,968
    Thanked: 13226
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    A few overall pics of the razor, to give us an idea of size and blade thickness and geometry would give a better chance of getting a more accurate picture of the patient's prognosis Because the pic you are showing now doesn't look very promising

  4. #4
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Des Moines
    Posts
    8,664
    Thanked: 2591
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    To answer the question better we need to know what the grind is. If there is enough metal to remove then there is high chance the blade is salvageable.
    Stefan

  5. #5
    Junior Member gdgross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    20
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    I've got one more overall pic of the razor...here it is...

    I don't know much about grinds, but it doesn't appear to me to be the usual concave hollow/half hollow/etc. grind. Almost more of a very acute triangle with the frame on the back side...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  6. #6
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Des Moines
    Posts
    8,664
    Thanked: 2591
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    In my opinion if you want to clean up the blade some pitting will have to be left on since it is frame back and the blade is pretty thin.
    As far as getting good edge, hard to tell from the pics, the razor needs to go to the hones and then you can tell if it will be usable.
    Stefan

  7. #7
    Senior Member tekbow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Leith, Edinburgh
    Posts
    821
    Thanked: 95

    Default

    and if not its always good practice for bevel setting? just because you may never shave with it, or its a junker, doesn't mean it can't be useful to you, every junker practiced on now is a salvageable razor honed well later.

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Allentown, PA
    Posts
    30
    Thanked: 3

    Default

    I would start with the Magic Marker test. If it passes the test I would hone with the low grit hone, for me a 325. If you can produce a clean edge then it can be honed.

  9. #9
    Junior Member gdgross's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    20
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Ok new guy here...what's the magic marker test?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Senior Member tekbow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Leith, Edinburgh
    Posts
    821
    Thanked: 95

    Default

    you give the edge and bevel a painting with the magic marker, it helps to see if you're making contact with the very edge when honing, say someone has set a bevel and honed with tape, or an old wedge with multiple bevels. basically you'll see a very thin line on the edge left if the edge isn't making contact. I also use it as an aid to figuring what pressure to use when bevel setting and honing, helps me keep an even bevel i.e. do i need to use a varied pressure due to uneven spine wear do i need to do my patented tape compensation trick etc

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •