Thread: Honing difference - meister vs newb

Bill's description of a saber edge sounds like the convex edge used on better scissors or some heavy duty knives. If you use a scary sharp system with leather under the abrasive sheet you can get this edge. The edge trails a lifted spine.

Rick

Beautiful description Bill and the pics are great. So what do you see as the benefits to your method? You mentioned stropping, could you be more specific? Is there an advantage to stropping on the edge alone? Am I correct in my assumption that a light touch is used? Does this lead to greater edge life? Are there any other advantages that might exist that I haven't thought of? Finally, I suspect that there is little reason to hone on the high grit with pressure. What is the functional purpose of this step? (I do understand the cosmetic reasoning)

Ofcourse, feel free to correct me if my assumptions are wrong.

Can't stay...bye bye, now...

I've gotta get me one of those

Hey Bill, many thanks for the very descriptive post!
I am sure that now many people will be thinking of this method of honing. The micro bevel- compound bevel approach has been around for some time and is very good. The only thing about it is that it is hard to duplicate the angles precisely. However, it just may be that there is no need for duplication of the exact same angle's except for the last, micro bevel. Perhaps many of us are already doing this but not really aware of it. I know that I use some pressure to remove old steel and nicks then lighten up after that.


Good thread guys!

Originally Posted by urleebird

mentioned.

Figure B shows an exaggerated view of a blade that is being slightly flexed by using more pressure at the edge. This pressure takes more metal off of the high side of the cutting edge. (edge closest to the spine) Of course, the closer the blade configuration is to a wedge, the less flex there will be. So, mostly, I use this technique for 1/4 hollow grind blades and thinner.

Bill,

IMHO you create a hollow honed bevel this way, what do you think?

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Perhaps many of us are already doing this but not really aware of it. I know that I use some pressure to remove old steel and nicks then lighten up after that.

I use pressure too when I start on a new Ebay acquisition, but I've never noticed a compound bevel (I always use a microscope the first time I hone a razor). I think you need to use a LOT of pressure to cause the edge to rise, especially with the bigger razors I've been getting lately.

Originally Posted by Kees

IMHO you create a hollow honed bevel this way, what do you think?

No, I think it is either a compound bevel or the upper part of the bevel bows out, not in.

Joe, if anything I do not think it will bow out. Just take a twig, bend it and cut off lengthwise with a straight cut some of the bark and the wood on the convex side of the bow and then "unbend" it. You'll notice you created a dent rather than a bump.

Originally Posted by urleebird

Many times I cheat. I have a 2 x 72 inch leather belt that I put on my burr king. It works real good at getting the edge dialed in. Paste or no paste...

Bill, do you go to the shed in the morning to strop?