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  1. #1
    Senior Member bman40's Avatar
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    Default I did it!!! .....almost

    Well, I tried to hone a razor last night. Today was the shave test. I'd have to give it 6.5 or 7 out of ten. I followed gssixgun's video closely, and took the Morley Clover razor I have through the steps. Its a very light razor compared to the Boker King Cutter and Dovo Best Quality I also have, the weight difference is quite noticeable....

    Shave test: I think I did an OK job on the edge, but nowhere near as nice an edge as the Dovo I got from Lynn, or the Boker honed by gsssixgun. I am willing to chalk up some of the problems with the shave to a new razor, a different weight, and my still-developing technique.

    I didn't cut myself, but I did get some irritation on my lower neck which I have not experienced with my other straights....I think i was over-compensating for the lighter weight with too much pressure.

    I have to pat myself on the back fora decent first effort....


    Barry

  2. #2
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    Default

    Nice one!

    I will soon be starting my honing experience to (well in january sometime) what did you use?

  3. #3
    ..mama I know we broke the rules... Maxi's Avatar
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    Good for you! It's an incredible feeling when you hone your first blade to shave ready. You'll learn with experience how to push your edge, and the signs to look for on your stones.

    You've got a new skill....you should be proud.

  4. #4
    Zen & the art of the cut throat mav13's Avatar
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    Well done mate! I am also going to attempt to hone my own razor but I dont anticipate actually getting it shave ready on my first attempt.
    It would be awesome to acquire the skill needed to hone myself, till then Onimaru55 are you out there???

  5. #5
    Senior Member bman40's Avatar
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    Default

    I used a Norton 4k/8k combo stone, plus an artificial nagura for the 4k to set the bevel.

    I'd like to know what to look for - one side of the bevel is 'longer / deeper' than the other - it goes further up the blade. It all looks pretty much shiny / mirror-like, but I dont think it would qualify as shave-ready in anyone's books - but I think its close-ish.

    Barry

  6. #6
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    FWIW:

    a) Don't worry about the asymmetrical bevel. It shouldn't affect the shaving quality of the blade.

    b) If you can arrange a CrOxide pasted strop, try it out. I find it hard to get shave-ready edges from an 8K, but easy from an 8K followed by CrOxide. [I know this is considered cheating by many experienced honers . . . ]

    . . Charles

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    bman40 (12-19-2011)

  8. #7
    ..mama I know we broke the rules... Maxi's Avatar
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    Once you've maxed out the 4k, which is really important, then you can move to the 8k to get a pretty comfortable edge.

    Once you believe you have gotten as far as you can on the 8k, try this: Clean the stone, wipe the razor. Add new water to the stone, and now wipe it off with your finger. Make sure there's no bumpies on the stone. 10 super smooth, ultra light, no pressure X strokes. Going down the hone should take 3-4 seconds, coming back on the hone should take another 3-4 seconds. Nice and slow.

    See if that helps any.

    Also.....when you arrive on the 8k, if you see metal being embedded on the hone very quickly, it's time to go back to the 4k. Some metal will embed on the 8, however, it should not happen after say 2 or 3 strokes. If it does, that means you haven't maxed your 4k yet.

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    bman40 (12-19-2011)

  10. #8
    Senior Member bman40's Avatar
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    Default

    Charles - Thanks for the advice.

    When I tried straight shaving three years ago, I bought a container of CroOx that sat on my shelf until this past October - when i was cleanign up my workshop, and threw it away because I wasnt using it.... now I wish I had it. I DO have the Dovo pastes - the red and black - which some folks here say work pretty well.

    I have some balsa, and I will paste up a couple of peices with the Dovo stuff, and give it a shot. My next iorder from SRD wil linclude the green paste they sell.

    Barry

    Quote Originally Posted by cpcohen1945 View Post
    FWIW:

    a) Don't worry about the asymmetrical bevel. It shouldn't affect the shaving quality of the blade.

    b) If you can arrange a CrOxide pasted strop, try it out. I find it hard to get shave-ready edges from an 8K, but easy from an 8K followed by CrOxide. [I know this is considered cheating by many experienced honers . . . ]

    . . Charles

  11. #9
    Senior Member bman40's Avatar
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    Maxi -

    Thanks for the comments - can you clarify: 'maxing out the 4k' is defined as what? no more 'rough' feeling? no more metal coming off on the stone?

    I think I was a little bit rushed on the 8k - I shoudl have done a few more light x-strokes liek gsssixgun shows in his video.

    Quote Originally Posted by Maxi View Post
    Once you've maxed out the 4k, which is really important, then you can move to the 8k to get a pretty comfortable edge.

    Once you believe you have gotten as far as you can on the 8k, try this: Clean the stone, wipe the razor. Add new water to the stone, and now wipe it off with your finger. Make sure there's no bumpies on the stone. 10 super smooth, ultra light, no pressure X strokes. Going down the hone should take 3-4 seconds, coming back on the hone should take another 3-4 seconds. Nice and slow.

    See if that helps any.

    Also.....when you arrive on the 8k, if you see metal being embedded on the hone very quickly, it's time to go back to the 4k. Some metal will embed on the 8, however, it should not happen after say 2 or 3 strokes. If it does, that means you haven't maxed your 4k yet.

  12. #10
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    Keep working at it and experimenting, youll be there before you know it

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