Thread: Jnat Finishing Routines--what are yours?

Have heard talk of late of actually Honing on slurry till it drys out and continued honing on basically powdered Slurry,what up with that?

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Have heard talk of late of actually Honing on slurry till it drys out and continued honing on basically powdered Slurry,what up with that?

That method works well on some stones (typically slower ones) & not too well on many others. A lot of stones will either slurry-dull or swiss cheese the edge if you use that much slurry for too long. I tried it on my Oozuku once--the edge was dull & a bit harsh.

Many stones work best on light slurry (you can dilute to water or not--it depends on a lot of factors) or even plain water.

Best thing to do is ask the seller what works best on it--they're all different.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Have heard talk of late of actually Honing on slurry till it drys out and continued honing on basically powdered Slurry,what up with that?

Originally Posted by PA23-250

That method works well on some stones (typically slower ones) & not too well on many others. A lot of stones will either slurry-dull or swiss cheese the edge if you use that much slurry for too long. I tried it on my Oozuku once--the edge was dull & a bit harsh.

Many stones work best on light slurry (you can dilute to water or not--it depends on a lot of factors) or even plain water.

Best thing to do is ask the seller what works best on it--they're all different.

Hence the problem with Natural stones hehehe or the Romance of a natural stone depends on how you look at it...

The first thing you have to do is figure out if the slurry coming off of your stone is Friable (breaks down) if it doesn't. then you need to go to water, if it does then you need to see whether it works better diluting to water, or going to dry

My Nakyama is a very hard stone, yet the slurry breaks down, and as it goes too dry it feels as though you are honing on fine talc, the problem is that at the presssures we use on western razors it takes eons to break down the slurry... You are better off leaving the old slurry on the stone, When honing Kamisori this is not a problem as the pressure and how you work the razor aids in the slurry breaking down...

Ain't honing at this level fun ???

That it is!

AFAIK all Kyoto (finishing) hones have friable grit particles that break down in thickness rather than size (Max, Alx & So say they do & I believe them), but the question I think is how much & how quickly it breaks down.

Let's say you have a hone that takes longer to do this & you make a lot of slurry. You could dull or eat the edge before it has a chance to do its thing. Then, the cutting power could be slowed to the point where you can't recapture the sharpness you lost early on & you could think your stone is no good when it's fine & you just made too much slurry. Especially w/ what Glen said about the pressure & sharpening area of western razors.

[QUOTE=onimaru55;903313]My finishing on Jnat's is a bit too psychedelic to document but lately I've been doing something akin to Iwasaki san's honing instructions. I will do 5-10 light swipes on felt sprayed with 0.5 diamond then do 3 -5 strokes on my finest Jnat, dry , no water. Strop linen & leather after, of course.
QUOTE]
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Onimaru55

I just tried 6 consecutive razors with this method. The razors were shave ready basically. The results on all six blades were phenomenal. I did the .5 micron diamond on SRD felt and the 5-6 laps on a dry Nakayama Maruichi Asagi I got from old_school several years ago. Then 75 laps on horsebutt. Whew!!! That's a beautiful finish.

Thank you for posting this one. Six consecutive blades is no fluke. It works.

Jerry
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Originally Posted by PA23-250

You've got me leaning toward the pros now: thinking 1,5,12 should do it. Do you soak them @ all or do you just spray water on them & hone? And how are they to lap? I guess what I'm asking is do they have a tendency to swell/warp like Naniwa SS sometimes can?

1, 5,12 could be a nice progression but I often use 1.5 & 2k as well. I find the 1.5 ,2 & 8 can fit somewhere in there more often than not & the small jumps help keep the stones flat too, useful when doing a handful of wedges which I try to mostly avoid Typically on a razor in good shape 2k is plenty for a light bevel set. Don't be misled by the numbers 1k -1.5k are quite a marked difference like 800 -1200 in the Kings. It is a system of varied uses & the 320 is really cool for eBay monsters too. I just run them under the tap/faucet to lap them then light spray with water in use, very light.
I have no probs lapping with the Atoma 400 & 1200 plates. The stones are very stable & don't warp much at all. In use they keep shape nicely too even when doing multiple blades. Like most ceramics prolonged soaking is a no no as is soap, hot water & temp extremes.



[QUOTE=mrsell63;903925]

Originally Posted by onimaru55

My finishing on Jnat's is a bit too psychedelic to document but lately I've been doing something akin to Iwasaki san's honing instructions. I will do 5-10 light swipes on felt sprayed with 0.5 diamond then do 3 -5 strokes on my finest Jnat, dry , no water. Strop linen & leather after, of course.
QUOTE]
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Onimaru55

I just tried 6 consecutive razors with this method. The razors were shave ready basically. The results on all six blades were phenomenal. I did the .5 micron diamond on SRD felt and the 5-6 laps on a dry Nakayama Maruichi Asagi I got from old_school several years ago. Then 75 laps on horsebutt. Whew!!! That's a beautiful finish.

Thank you for posting this one. Six consecutive blades is no fluke. It works.

Jerry
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Thanx for the feedback Jerry. I've only recently adopted this & don't find it always repeatable but 6 in a row is good run. I think the razor may dictate outcome a little too but if it's somewhat lacking or as good as you think it can get it's worth a try.

I'd sort of like to get the 2k & even the Atoma 400 as well (worried about the DMT 325 sticking to the 12k), but I don't know if I can swing it, money wise. You can probably avoid removing too much metal on the 1k by keeping the strokes light, right? I think I'm pretty much sold on the pros now!

What do you mean the particles break down in thickness rather than size? Do you mean the slurry gets thinner and the actual grit level never changes?

Originally Posted by bloodhoundman

What do you mean the particles break down in thickness rather than size? Do you mean the slurry gets thinner and the actual grit level never changes?

they split in flakes, like puff pastry for example

Oh, I see. Thanks