1 My opinion is that you either need the 1k or the 1200, not both.

2. Keep the tape. I always use tape and I think it works really well in all stages of honing. Keep in mind that taking away a layer of tape is a little more work than adding one.

3. Not familiar with the shaptons but my guess is that a similar progression would work? Watch the bevel for signs of increased polish. When that stops improving it's time to move on. Most important IMO is to finish on a very clean (no slurry) hone with VERY LIGHT STROKES. And I change the tape before switching hones, sometimes twice; once before my finishing strokes, then another before switching hones.

As for the uneven honing, which stroke is the uneven part on? Is it your away stroke or your coming back stroke. I ask because I think it may be time to examine your mechanics on that stroke. Are you dropping your elbow?, moving your wrist?, lifting the razor at that point? Try changing your body position, position of the hone, grip, etc until you are able to even out your honing stroke. Watch the water on the hone, listen and feel what the razor is telling you on the hone. After you get your honing stroke even, then that part of the bevel may not look quite the same as the rest. I think that's okay as long as it's well formed, even and passes the arm hair and Thumb pad test on that spot. I'm not saying that the razor isn't slightly uneven, that may be the case. But for me, if I get uneven honing, I can usually find the answer in my mechanics whether there is a flaw in the razor or not.

Keep in mind that I'm not an expert here. Standard disclaimer: The above post may be incorrect or misleading!

Michael