Thread: Why HHT is important or is not?

Hello good people,


I have ANOTHER question about HHT. First I need to start with statement that I don`t use HHT at all. I intend to hone razor under microscope and make sure that after C12K edge is smooth and even. However I have to admit that sometimes I have problem to set bevel correctly and I have to start this long honing process from beginning (since I think I am still a beginner and I need meeting with expert to go over bevel setting).
However I do really get pleasant and nice shaves when I`m successfully done with honing.
Now my question: Does all made razor out there will always pass 100% HHT3/4 or 5? Does some of razor happen to be a good razor (shaver) but made from poor quality steel and will not pass anything beyond HHT2?
Does HHT –5 always means my shaving will be pleasant (when thinking about answer let`s assume that all prep work was done and we have used best shaving cream ever) and will give satisfactory shaving. It is possible that razor will pass HHT-5 but will not hold edge after first shave?


And last thing…. There is so d**n much more to learn about straight razor that I`m starting getting headache and wish to rent a personal home master for day to day use and training purposes, so my ask (to all hone masters) please let us know beginners, to determinate when beginner is at top of his performance and when need more education. Sometimes I am lost in your answers as I am struggling to understand if I do something wrong or just my luck of experience vs. master experience does not allowing me to determinate what I just did right and what I ddi wrong and it turn out to be another point of desperation. With all I sad I know you all want to help and I am very thankful for that. It is maybe difficult to explain what I want to address but in last month I have seen many beginners purchasing straight razors, $1000 of worth natural stones and yet we all meet here (SRP) and try to understand what beginners do wrong (honing, bevel setting, stropping). Where should I drawn line and say "That`s it, next step is meeting with hone master and learn in person, correct mistakes, educate yourself…". I know it is hard question, maybe impossible to answer… but worth to be asked.
In regards of my experience I am very happy with one restored, honed razor but next one might be total disappointment as I follow the same technique of restoration, honing but yet, razor sounds to disregards with me, saying"…. LoL Boy, oh boy… you lack experience… I`m different razor, go back to school…".


OK, now probably no one understand what I want to express…. :-(

Thank you all!

The HHT grading system of 1 through 5 is not very well accepted as something to be taken seriously at SRP it seems. I used to use it, but have not received any passing grade on a razor after seven months of trying to hone. Take heart! You are not alone! I think we both need to go and see a razor sharpening expert. I wish I can help you, but as you see I'm still not achieving success after seven long months of trying. haha. Many others have passed me by in that time, but someday it will be worth it I suppose. I also have plenty razors that seem to shave fine for me, but the experts agree that my edges aren't acceptable. So I continue...And so should you.

First of all, I have discovered along the way, that some razors don't need to have the bevel set. They already do. In the beginning I always did a bevel set. A light bulb lit up one day and I took a NOS razor and went straight to the norton 4/8 pyramid and the sky didn't fall. Matter for fact I got a good shave. So while you are looking through your microscope check the edge to see if the bevel set is necessary on that particular razor. IMHO ...... YMMV.

I've gotten good comfortable shaves out of razors that did pass HHT and out of razors that didn't pass HHT. I've gotten uncomfortable, as in irritating, shaves out of razors that passed HHT and poor shaves out of some that didn't. I happen to like to use the HHT as a barometer of where the blade is at but I wouldn't say it is necessary or even necessarily reliable. Makes me feel good when my honing job passes so , since I like to feel good, I do it.

From your post I assume you've been honing and shaving with those razors without the HHT ? Are you getting good shaves ? Maybe you already have your answer.

Hello JimmyHAD,

yes I do get good shaves -IN MY OPINION:-) My sky my fall down on me when you will use the same blade and just after one pass will say" **** **** is this:-)" but honestly I think you could also get nice shave after my honing. I think I was lucky enough and got pretty good C12K which give pretty good results. Also I have learn that when I have problematic razors (like small warp, uneven spine) I can easily correct honing by using 2" or 2 1/4" hone instead famous 3" N4/8K.

Anyway I will not stop trying, learning... it is just to interesting but I need to say HHT test is getting to bug me big time.... sorry lack of HHT passed by my honed razors. Hmmm.... time will tell...

I don't want to address your HHT question, especially not the grading system. I would like to say that the key to honing for most guys is just being patient. The hones are high grit and they take, and you should let them, plenty of time. When you get up to HHT it's the same game, but with a strop. And THAT game is really slow. But over time the edge gets really smooth and really sharp. The big difference between old time barber's and us modern day folks is that barber's would take the time to set a blade with a strop, and then they would do damn near anything to prevent using a hone, because they knew how long it took to rework the blade with a strop. Us on the other hand seem to spend most of our time dorking with a hone and trying to improve the blade with a system that is too course for the purpose.

FWIW, Proximus - not all hair will function for the HHT. My head hair usually won't - so I got out the 1" micrometer and found it avgs .0018" thick. 'Pretty thin.

Chest hair, otoh, is .0033". It works fairly well, though I can see variations in thickness and take those into account when I test. Like Jimmy says - it just gives me a ballpark on progress. Nothing compares w/ a face/shave test.

A good sense of irreverent humor is essential while learning to hone. Keep it nearby.

Try different people's hair


No really

I did an off the cuff test using different people and DE blades, they all tried the HHT with new DE blades these guys were NOT straight razor users, they just did me a favor and tried the HHT...


The pass fail rate was about 50% the trick to HHT is the word "Calibrate" try your hair with a DE blade try all the tests TNT TPT AHT HHT with a DE blade, this is going to be very enlightening... Now try other peoples hair with the DE blades not the same one but from the same pack that is also going to be very enlightening...

Basically if you haven't calibrated your tests you are pretty much wasting your time trying them

I have very fine 'fly away' hair. Most of it is white and between it being fine and white it is hard to see unless I choose a background that allows me to see it easily. Anyway, in the beginning I thought my hair might be too fine to do HHT. Then the old light bulb flashed. I was failing at doing HHT with a freshly honed straight. Laying on the counter top was a used Gillette Swede DE. Well used I might add. I picked it up and it passed HHT with my fine fly away hair easily. So I knew one thing, it wasn't my hair.

I also learned that because of the structure of a hair it is easier to pass HHT with the root sticking out, not towards the palm. Finally, I learned something new the other day. I was trying HHT on a Koeller I had just honed and stropped. The point and one third back would pass easily. Same at the heel and one third forward of it. The center and each way a bit were not. I turned my hand so that the other side of the edge was now 'facing' the hair and it popped it easily. The paper thin edge must have been leaning that way in the center ? Anyway, I like what AF Davis said.

FWIW, I don't go to the HHT with a razor until it has been stropped. I know that mparker said that he had taken a dull razor and with a heck of a lot of stropping got it to shave decently. I'm going to mess with stropping more than I have in the past and see if I can duplicate some of AF's results.

As for progressive grading of HHT.... just when I think I've finally got "it" down ....... what will they think of next ?

I have no hair when it turned all grey and I started to part it just above my ear,the wife got the dawg clippers and took it all off.
Thus the test is something I cannot do(( I just hone me blades the best I can, strop them up and pray, so far god has been good.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

First of all, I have discovered along the way, that some razors don't need to have the bevel set. They already do. In the beginning I always did a bevel set. A light bulb lit up one day and I took a NOS razor and went straight to the norton 4/8 pyramid and the sky didn't fall. Matter for fact I got a good shave. So while you are looking through your microscope check the edge to see if the bevel set is necessary on that particular razor. IMHO ...... YMMV. ...

I noticed this too. Often I'll do a few passes on the 4k to see if the bevel completely frosts or shows only a partial frosting with a shiny edge on the shaving edge. Full frosted means the bevel is set and ready work up the progression. Partial means a bevel setting is needed. You can do this with wedges too on the 8k. It will should how much or little work you need to do.

- Mike