Thread: Rounding a Square

Procedure? Did you just hold the razor, edge up, against a solid surface and just used the hone to file the 'square end' till it was rounded??

Exactly as described. Stand the razor on its end. Tilt the edge 45degrees from vertical and draw the point like you are cutting the stone and turn to the vertical as you draw. A pass or three with no pressure will cut the point and if you are gentle it will only go as far as the bevel. To reverse the bevel must be reset but the only steel lost will be the depth of the bevel.

Before I read the above... I took out the razor that I used to cut soap with and a small piece of ~220 grit sand paper. Ran the paper over the point and it rounded easily. (Need to try again before I do it on a good razor).

This might make a good tip of the month.

Originally Posted by Nonstickron

This might make a good tip of the month.

No tip of the month! rounding the point lowers the excitement level of the shave! most of my razors have square or pointy tips i love them. a few of them have been rounded and it is ok but i like the razors the way the maker thought they should be.

ymmv,
jim

Originally Posted by syslight

No tip of the month! rounding the point lowers the excitement level of the shave! most of my razors have square or pointy tips i love them. a few of them have been rounded and it is ok but i like the razors the way the maker thought they should be.

ymmv,
jim

Whereas I like my face the way the maker thought it should be. Results are results it is what it is. I can't be trusted to run around with no sharp pointy things.

Originally Posted by jaswarb

Whereas I like my face the way the maker thought it should be. Results are results it is what it is. I can't be trusted to run around with no sharp pointy things.

Even most barbers dubbed the point on their razors!!

Depending on the contours of your face and to some degree on technique, the point can do damage. I basicaly use an old carb stone and start at a 30 degree angle draw and roll up to almost 90 degrees at the end. A few stokes after honing is all that is needed and it always works. It should really not look any different when done, just much safer.