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Thread: belgian pyramids?
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11-13-2006, 09:08 PM #1
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Thanked: 108belgian pyramids?
Does anyone who hones on belgian blue and yellow only (i.e. no norton 4/8K) use pyramids?
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11-13-2006, 11:31 PM #2
I use pyramiding theory prior to finishing on all my stones. I have varied sets for varied types of steel. I do not use Belgian stones but I imagine if your patient someone that does will chime in (assuming your looking for a specific answer about those stones).
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11-14-2006, 12:31 AM #3
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Thanked: 4942I use a pyramid approach with the Belgium, but it is actually the last stone that I use when doing this. I don't use it as a stand alone unless trying to refresh a razor as it is more of a polishing stone for me.
Lynn
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11-14-2006, 02:50 AM #4
I agree with Lynn, the belgian is a finishing stone. I still use the Norton 4K/8K for my basic honing and then the yellow coticule to finish with. As far as pyramids go since learning how to hone I really don't consciously use them anymore I just go by feel and what the particular blade needs but I guess the final result comes very close to the pyramid routine.
No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero
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11-14-2006, 01:52 PM #5
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Thanked: 108Well, I don't have a Norton, so unlike many I actually use the blue side of the belgian. I haven't yet used the stone on an ebay salvage project, but I have used it to bring a very dull razor (wouldn't cut hairs period) up to shave-sharp. I was very unscientific, no pyramid, no microscope or anything. I did about 50+ laps on the blue side, until I had what looked to my naked eye like a fresh and even bevel, then I did maybe 20 on the yellow. No pastes. Very sharp and no wire edge; great shave. Did I get lucky?
Is the main concept of the pyramid to avoid a wire edge as you do the final approach to shave-sharp? The intermittent strokes on the 4K prevent a burr from forming, is that it?Last edited by dylandog; 11-14-2006 at 02:00 PM.
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11-18-2006, 02:07 PM #6
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Thanked: 2209Originally Posted by dylandog
Also, when your using your Belgian be sure to develop a slurry first. It will increase your rate of cutting and the fineness of your finish.Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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11-27-2006, 12:36 AM #7
Pyramids and Pyramiding Theory?
These are new terms to me and I'm sure someone has a good explanation of them. I love new theories if they give one some leverage on how to think about doing things better.
I try to keep my razors sharp by just using a coticule. It's easier to keep your razor sharp than it is to sharpen your razor. If I do get too busy or lazy, I'll turn the stone over and use the blue to bring it up faster. The blue and the yellow are both finishing stones. I do have another grade of belgian stone called Salmon Rouge which I'm going to be playing with in a week or so that is coarser. We'll see where it fits in the lineup! I'll report when I have some experience with it.
To keep my razors sharp, I use a belgian blue, then a yellow, then a natural leather strop with no dressing. Then I shave. I get about a day and a half from a shave.
If I'm restoring an abused razor, I'll remove steel with a DMT 1200 stone and then go to blue and then to yellow. Honing is a progressive process going from coarse to fine.
Howard
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01-24-2007, 07:00 PM #8
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Thanked: 9I'd like to resurrect this thread - wanted to get a sanity check - do others have similar experiences.
After I get a razor HHT sharp off the Blue (which , even with slurry, may take quite a bit - depending on the razor's condition) I experience great variability with the Yellow. For a smooth shave, I may need to do anywhere from 10 to 40+ laps on the yellow.
I have not experienced wire edges even with 40+ laps but this seems like too much?
Cheers
Ivo
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01-24-2007, 07:44 PM #9
I used blue and yellow for pyramiding.
YMMV but for me, the blue was dog slow. Granted, my edge was gone, thanks to my own mistakes, but it took me over 5 hours to get it back to HHT sharp.
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01-24-2007, 07:52 PM #10
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Thanked: 9Sure, Bruno
Depending on starting point, the Blue might take a long while (slurry makes it faster, as has been pointed out before by Randy and others)
However, my primary question is for blades AFTER I get them HHT sharp on the Blue - I am concerned about variability on the Yellow. For the record, I use hair from a Silvertip Omega (which was defective, I returned it to the vendor but not before I kept some hair stock for HHT)
Cheers
Ivo