Thread: Spine is not parallel to the edge

If the top of the spine is not parallel to the edge, what is the best procedure to follow? In other words, if a blade is wider at the toe (say 5/8) than at the heel (say 9/16), what is the best procedure to make the widths equal? And conversely, if a blade is wider at the heel than at the toe, what is the best procedure to make the widths equal?

As long as there is no frown, I generally don't worry about fixng a blades geometry. All you need are some rolling x-strokes and maybe vary the pressure throughout the stroke to make sure all parts of the edge make contact with the stone. Of course this is only my opinion, and if you want to "fix" the razor, I'm sure others will chime in.

I wouldn't worry about fixing anything like that. You're in for more trouble trying to set the bevel after you re-shape a smile.

Like Louie Armstrong told the lady who asked, "What is jazz?" ..... "If you don't know, don't mess with it."

Kidding aside, read this PDF file excerpted from the 1961 barber manual on honing and stropping. It will show you how to maintain and keep a desirable profile when honing your razors, and how to avoid a frown.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi...t_-_Honing.pdf

In your example the toe is actually smaller(5/8) then the heel (9/16).
Not that it matters as I understand what you are saying. What I think you are describing is uneven hone wear and one side being worn down more then the other between the heel and toe. (front and back of the edge) I have a few razors like this and don't worry about it. Remember that if one side is worn down there is probobly heavier spine hone wear over that area also. I have "straightened out" a few but only when I reground down on the heavy wedge to take up the spine hone wear.

Phew. Hope that helps some
Paul

Rolling x-stroke on a narrow hone will take care of it

A lot of razors were designed to be asymmetrical from heel to tip. Others got that way from really bad honing techniques. You'd probably know if it was designed that way, though. If it's your typical German razor, it was born symmetrical most likely but a lot of English razors and some of the American razors weren't. And almost all the old "Cast Steel" razors with straight scales were asymmetrical. A razor can have a lot of different variations in shape and still shave well. I'm with the guys that say you probably shouldn't worry about whether it's symmetrical as much as whether it's good and sharp and ready to shave.