Thread: Rambling thoughts on "Sharpness Tests"

I read every day on here as people give advice about each sharpness test, and the one thing that seems to be universal is that none of them, not a single one works for everyone the same way


Let's take a second and break them all down


First, is the visual, which you should do before you even start honing, take a good look at the bevel and what shape it is in, have a plan of attack before you start grinding away at the steel, basically start with the highest grit needed to do the job...


Second, the TNT or Thumb Nail test, this can be a good indicator that the bevel is actually set, however it doesn't work for everyone, also it is a WET thumbnail
The one advantage to this test that is often over looked is that it also cleans up the bevel while testing it, the TNT will slightly dull the edge and smooth out any roughness from the harsh bevel setting stone.. Remember to go back and do some light finishing laps on the bevel setter to bring the fine edge back..

This leads us to the Third test or the Arm Hair Test (AHT) this test has been expanded to much more than a simple positive bevel check, with people talking of "wafting" the edge, and "tree topping" the arm hairs.. These terms are great for you if they work, but honestly it isn't an indication of your honing prowess it is an indicator of your arm hair... If the edge cuts hair the bevel is set, now I once thought this was a foolproof test, but that isn't so, some people can't get arm hairs to pop even with a shave ready edge, and yes I have seen it myself...

So with some combination of the first three tests hopefully you can get at least one or two to work for you and give you an indication of a true and well set bevel...

Moving on, the next tests involve touch, so again they are highly subjective, the TPT or Thumb Pad Test needs to be figured out so it tells YOU something.. It has to be learned so that you can tell that the edge is getting sharper, some people press the edge, and gather info from how the edge sticks, some people bounce the edge and gather info from how sticky/grabby the edge feels, and some actually do a very light slice and they feel how the edge cuts into their thumb pad... but as you hone more, you feel more edges and your brain learns to process that info..
Some people use the three finger test, and gather info from three points of contact on the edge, again you have to train your brain to process that input..


The HHT or Hanging Hair Test, probably the most controversial of all the tests, this one is all about the hair, this test like all the ones before it has to be calibrated in.. I don't mean the 1-5 that is sometimes discussed, I mean does a proved shave ready edge even pop your hair ??? Before you even add the HHT to your testing regime you should first test your hair.. You could have hair like mine that pops at 1k or you could have hair like my wife's that will laugh at every edge until it is perfectly stropped in... The easiest test is trying out a DE blade on your hair sample, learn the difference of root in, root out, does it matter with your hair ??? Mine doesn't..
Once you determine if the hair you are going to use is of any use, then you can proceed to develop a HHT that tells you something..
Think about that, if I only use my hair, the HHT is useless because it pops way to easily, if I use my wife's hair it is useless when honing, as it won't pop reliably until after I strop.. I calibrated that out, I spent the time to learn it... BTW I have a calibrated HHT that I know works, and I haven't used it to test an edge in at least 1 year, except as a parlor trick at meets, or for non-shavers to go at

The last real test, The Shave test...
The biggest problem with the shave test is that many don't understand it, it doesn't mean you shave your whole face especially if you are a beginner that is pretty useless...
The shave test is to test the edge, not your shaving ability or lack of it

Most use the sideburn to jawline stroke, as it is the easiest for the most people, and it is the one that beginners should learn first...
Now as people become better at shaving, many branch out and might use a different stroke to test their edges, which is fine, like all the other tests each is subjective to the individual... Myself I tend to judge the edge ATG on my neck, that is my personal shave test, doesn't mean it will work for you..
One thing I have learned, an experienced shaver can shave a much worse edge then a newb can and that works the other way too.. A newb that thinks the edge isn't "shave ready" should probably go back to the shave test and KISS to actually see if it is the edge that is lacking, or the skill that is lacking...


That one thing of all these tests that is probably the most important, is the subjective part, it is also the hardest to learn because it requires time and patience to learn and understand...

I love reading on here as people progress along this path we have all have chosen, that at 3 months they think they have it, and at 6 months they know they didn't...
Each time you tackle a new razor on the hones, it teaches you something, then as you take that razor to your face, you learn again, there really is no end to this journey...


I hope these rambling thoughts help somebody a little bit

Thank you Glen,very definative.

Enjoyable read, Glen. Thank you.

Ya none of the hair tests work on me....sad cause I have so damn much of it!! lol

Originally Posted by gssixgun

...I love reading on here as people progress along this path we have all have chosen, that at 3 months they think they have it, and at 6 months they know they didn't...

So true! Regardless of the tests you use, all that really matters is experience. I thought I had honing all figured out, and that my edges were great. Then, a few days ago, I used a razor that was one of the first ones I had ever "successfully" honed...... it was an absolutely horrible edge..... and it had passed all my tests, including the shave test at the time.

Agree.

I happen to be lucky, my wife's hair is perfect for the HHT. I can tell after I hone a razor how its going to shave based my HHT. I know this because I know the feel of the edge from my stones, I use JNATs and Coticules.

I can't make the same statement from someone else stones. If I get a razor from someone else, it may pass the HHT but may not necessarily shave well for me.

HHT works if you learn your own results.

If you don't mind, I'd like to comment on the visual aspect.

I think this is extraordinarily useful. For me, it's become more and more useful over the past six month. I always take a look at the edge and bevel before I begin, and one thing that I've noticed is that with practice my own eyes are able to see small blemishes that a year ago, I needed a loupe for. I'm not talking about microchipping here, but after I while, I could see a dip in a blade that was a incredibly minute. With the older razors that have wider bevels, the visual works well as you hone through the grits. It's really all about a great bench lamp and training your eyes.

I don't think I'm out to lunch here, because I've seen my own honing improve since I began to practice my own visual inspections.

Just my own two cents.....hope that was ok.

Thanks for the insight, Glen.
I agree with it all (and why wouldn't I - you've been doing this a while)
I have never had any success with the TPT (just blood), however, the HHT on my wifes very fine, red hair is almost definative for me.
Regarding the shave test, I find the 'fools pass' to be the one that really tells me about the edge I've created - smoothness, sharpness - the lot.
As is usual YMMV
Thanks for the thread

Actually - I think I'll I'll go and have a shave now - just for the hell of it

Originally Posted by gssixgun

If the edge cuts hair the bevel is set, now I once thought this was a foolproof test, but that isn't so, some people can't get arm hairs to pop even with a shave ready edge, and yes I have seen it myself...

I could believe that. I seem to remember getting a lot of flak when I was starting out when I said that a razor I had wouldn't cut arm hair above skin level. I was accused of using a razor that wasn't shave ready, regardless of the fact I was getting great shaves. I still haven't quite figured out why that is, I just chalk it up to another one of the many idiosycrasies of straight razor shaving. BUT.... it DOES illustrate the point that the only true test is the shave test

I'd like to state what my process is when I evaluate a razors edge. This is just what seems to work for me so far. First off if I buy a razor from an antique store or wherever I look at it to see if there are any chips I can see with the naked eye if not I go to a loupe. If all is good I try to shave my arm hair, which is rather fine. If it cuts smoothly with no tug or hang ups I will take it to my Norton 4k and work on the pyramid since that seems to give me the most consistent results. If it doesn't shave my arm hair I take it to my 1k. I don't try to do any "tree topping" off of my 1k. I try to do the least amount of honing on my 1k that I can. I try to keep the harshness from the 1k down to a minimal, but as stated the TNT will help alleviate some of that roughness if there is some. I do try the "tree topping" off of my Norton 8k though cause usually if I can pass the razor over my arm and cut the hair cleanly I will test it with a shave. If all is well I will take it to my finishers and then test it again to make sure I didn't make it worse. This is all my opinion that seems to work for me SO FAR though as I haven't honed all that many razors yet. As for the HHT if I do do that it is only for my amusement not a sharpness test. This is all for my Norton set though since you all are having me want to buy more and more stones to try out so I need to work on new systems for each stone. Not that that is bad cause I love the learning portion of the honing process, but you all are enablers. Also as stated some test work for others and some don't.