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  1. #1
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    Default First honing attempt

    After a false start, when I just tried to touch up a vintage razor on my new coticule using 7 light X strokes w/ water, which dulled my razor, I spent some time attempting my first honing job. I've never honed before, and despite suggestions to get a Norton 4/8K, I got a 150mm X 50mm coticule.

    So, I dulled my by sliding the edge over a glass bottle using just the weight of the razor. It surprised me how much that one light pass dulled the blade. It didn’t cut arm hair now. I made a milk-like slurry and started honing. I did some circles, some half strokes, and some X strokes. When the slurry started riding up the edge along the whole blade during the X strokes, I rinsed the blade off and did the arm hair thing; it now shaved arm hair. I put a few drops of water in the slurry and started again. I followed this procedure until I was just down to water.

    I had noticed that there were times during the honing process where there would be a thin line of slurry/water that got left behind, or so it seemed; kind of like a windshield wiper may leave a streak of water, if there is a blemish on the blade in that spot. I tried to give special attention to parts of the edge where the slurry acted inconsistent w/ the rest of the edge.

    When I was done, I stropped the razor; 50 linen & 50 leather. It did pass the HHT in some places along the edge, and it shaved arm hair easily along the whole edge. I didn’t have time to do a full shave with it, but I did use it for one WTG pass. It kind of shaved as well as it did before I got the coticule. The blade seemed smoother on the skin, and there were places along the edge that seemed sharper, and it shaved easier. However, there were other places along the edge where it didn’t do so well.

    My question to you is, at this point should I start over; dulling the edge, and then starting with a thicker slurry? Or should I just go back to a thinner slurry, and pick it up from there? Should I try to give special attention to specific places along the edge, or just give attention to the whole edge evenly? I may actually have done something harmful to parts of the edge by giving them special attention. I don’t really want to go the Unicot route by using tape to create a second bevel if I don’t absolutely have to. I realize this is my first honing attempt and I have a long way to go to learn my stone and be successful at honing, but I wanted to get some suggestions as to where to go from here with the edge I have created at this point.

  2. #2
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    IMO no need to actually "dull" the edge..just rehone it...first 25 strokes have to be very firm pressure to "make" the edge..10 more strokes have to a bit lighter...10 more even lighter than that..regarding slurry..everyone stone has its own "way" that it performs..some coti's need thicker slurry others dont..try different grades of slurry

  3. #3
    ace
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    I agree with there being no reason to "dull" the blade. Just start with what you have and rehone it. If I were you I would use tape, not because of any method, but because it would give you a new angle at working toward a bevel. It is a much easier way to "start over" than intentionally dulling the edge.

  4. #4
    ..mama I know we broke the rules... Maxi's Avatar
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    Well.....

    I wouldn't dull the blade on glass. The ONLY time I do that is before I rip razors apart for a restoration. By the time you move to a stone which is coarser than a shave ready edge, you're rehoning that bevel anyway.

    We're going to assume here that your bevel was set evenly across the entire length of the blade. Having made that assumption, we have also assumed that the first 90% of honing has gone according to plan.

    I would, at this point in your honing journey, not give special attention to "parts" of the blade, unless of course the heel is dull as heck but the rest of the blade is shaving. I would concentrate on 100% EVEN, FLUID strokes. And I'd probably also stick to x strokes or half strokes. When you do circles, you need to pay even more attention to the even-ness of your pressure, and then you'll use x's to work out your circles. So, for now, I'd stay with the x's. It will take a bit more time on the hones, but that is the essence of learning.

    I would probably go back to a thin slurry on the coti and work up from there. Once your into clear water, rinse the stone and razor very well. Then try another 20-30 on clear water, using super light, even strokes. Strop and test shave.

    It has already been said that each coti has a mind of its own. It's up to you, and endless amounts of experimentation to determine how your coti is going to work.

    Good Luck!

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