Thread: Kamisori panic

Another thought. A loupe or microscope may help you also. After viewing my Iwasaki under the 'scope I figured it didn't need much work at all.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Another thought. A loupe or microscope may help you also. After viewing my Iwasaki under the 'scope I figured it didn't need much work at all.

This is exactly my problem and the best point, the edge under a loupe looks perfect, thick line on the front thin line on the back, both perfectly straight (jap sides!!,) cant understand why it isnt sCreaming sharp. Its not gonna need much in my humble opion. Feels great though cant wait

You've only described the bevels tho.
Look closely in sunlight or a bright light. Check for any sparkling anomalies in the edge. My be a slight burr or microchips.
This was the edge I received. See what I mean ? Took nothing to fix but was not perfect initially tho cosmetically great.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

You've only described the bevels tho.
Look closely in sunlight or a bright light. Check for any sparkling anomalies in the edge. My be a slight burr or microchips.
This was the edge I received. See what I mean ? Took nothing to fix but was not perfect initially tho cosmetically great.

i see it clearly in your photo, i dont have a loupe that powerful, but i wouldnt be suprised if mine is similar

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Hate to tell you but the Shapton 12 k you ordered is very abrasive ... for a 12 k at least.... so it is not the least abrasive manner for honing but it may be appropriate.
My question to you is how do you know what is appropriate & when do you stop honing? If you have a method you will be fine. You will likely need to do less than you think.

I think it's a very closely graded 1.2 micron stone. The density of abrasive on the professionals and glasstones is very high, but the particles are fairly small. It doesn't take much of something coming off of them to tone the edge down a little bit and make it very keen but softer.

I have US version of the stone (sold as 15k with a claimed abrasive size slightly smaller, about 1 micron), but I think it works very well despite being a brash cutter due to the abrasive density. The particle size is probably similar to the popular 12k superstone, even if the binder is a lot harder.

If someone has nothing to follow it with, I would let the surface of the shapton dry and then continue to burnish the razor edge on it until it has a uniform bright polish on the bevel. Just my thoughts on it, I don't think there's any danger in using it vs. any other synthetic in that grit range, it'll just work fast - especially on the kinds of simple steels usually in a kamisori.

Dont you just love how technical all this is!!!!!

Originally Posted by Hoddy

Dont you just love how technical all this is!!!!!

I wonder why this is , it is just a well made razor with no warps that needs a touch up, pretty simple IMO.

Originally Posted by mainaman

I wonder why this is , it is just a well made razor with no warps that needs a touch up, pretty simple IMO.

Sorry i didnt state clearly, i was reffering to the general world of straight razors and honing....that being technical due to the multitude of differnt forms of doing things.
As to your comment of awell made razor etc, not simple when you have never spent more than 5 dollars on any of your razors and now for the first time in your life you have a 300 dollar japanese hand crafted razor in your hands, which you could easily **** up during the first hone!!!!

Originally Posted by Hoddy

i see it clearly in your photo, i dont have a loupe that powerful, but i wouldnt be suprised if mine is similar

That's a USB m'scope but set low IIRC approx 20x.

Originally Posted by Hoddy

Sorry i didnt state clearly, i was reffering to the general world of straight razors and honing....that being technical due to the multitude of differnt forms of doing things.

This is where the problem is there is no multitude of ways, one has to establish the condition of the edge/bevel, then just take the necessary steps to bring the edge to shave ready. All you need to do is 5 passes on your highest stone and test if you see improvement then do 5 more test, till you get the edge you like. If the higher stone does not work go to the lower grit and do the same then move to the higher grit and again a few passes at a time till the edge gets where you like it. It is a whole other question if the Shaptons will be suitable for that steel, I can't comment on that as I use naturals at that stage of the honing.

If you are hesitant to try on your own, the simplest solution is to send it out for honing, then you can be sure the razor will be honed correctly.