Thread: Comparing Water Stones and Strop Pastes

After an extensive (almost mind-numbing) amount of forum research I've recently purchased a straight razor (Dovo Classic "Special" 5/8 Black), a Norton 4000-8000X stone, strop paddle with a block of chromium oxide, a linen/leather strop and a cheap 60-100X Radioshack microscope.

I have sharpened, thought it was ready and tried to shave 4 times already. Each time is getting better, less ripping and pulling until it was decent to shave my upper face, but my neck still eludes me.

I've been back into the forums again and re-read most everything again and I am more confused than ever. The general consensus seems to be to progress from the Norton water stones (using some type of pyramid scheme and an X motion) to pasted strops and then to the plain strop

HTML Code:

http://www.nortonconsumer.com/Media/Documents/S0000000000000001032/GeneralInfoDATA.pdf

Norton 4000X = 6 microns
Norton 8000X = 3 microns

HTML Code:

http://www.classicshaving.com/catalog/item/522944/196078.htm

Dovo Green Sharpening Paste = 6 microns
Dovo Red Sharpening Paste = 2-4 microns
Dovo White Paste = edge polish (??? <0.25 microns ???)
Dovo Yellow Paste = leather conditioner

HTML Code:

http://www.classicshaving.com/page/page/522944.htm

diamond pastes = 9 microns
diamond pastes = 1.0 microns
diamond pastes = 0.5 microns
diamond pastes = 0.25 microns

HTML Code:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32984&cat=1,43072

chromium oxide = 0.5 microns


However, it seems that there is a lot of overlap in grit sizes between the water stones and different paste grit size (i.e. Dovo Green Sharpening Paste (6 um) after the Norton 8000X (3um) would be counter productive). Any thoughts?
Also, if you have any other suggestions for improving my technique, please pass them along.


Thanks,
Mark

P.S. After a few more shaves, I will send it out to Lynn, through the classic shaving sharpening service and 'compare notes'.

I think you're right--the items you listed do overlap. Most members here seem to use just the Norton followed by either a finishing hone (12K or so), a pasted strop with 1 and .5 micron pastes, or both. I've been having great results with just the Norton and 1 and .5 micron pastes on one of Tony's paddles.

Several members swear by the chromium oxide, and I think they go straight from the Norton to the CrO2.

Anybody want to talk to Tony about making a octagonal paddle strop?

Josh

The neck is the toughest area for me - I have to shave across my neck to get really close - by this I mean the razor moves across my neck from the outside to the side of my throat - so W-E on the left side and E-W on the right. The throat area I just need to do a N-S and S-N.

I can get a passable shave on my neck with N-S and S-N, but need the E-W/W-E to get it really close.

Originally Posted by suzuki

The neck is the toughest area for me - I have to shave across my neck to get really close - by this I mean the razor moves across my neck from the outside to the side of my throat - so W-E on the left side and E-W on the right. The throat area I just need to do a N-S and S-N.

I can get a passable shave on my neck with N-S and S-N, but need the E-W/W-E to get it really close.

I haven't been able to figure out arm and hand positions to do the W-E and E-W strokes you describe. Could you explain how you do it?

I have an angular face and jaw, so that might be my main problem...

Josh

Its not the angles of your face, its the direction your hair grows that dictates the best angle of attack.

Much of the hair on my neck grows across my neck - if you let your beard grow for a couple of days, you will see that your beard grows in different directions in different places - you look to see which way the hair naturally lies. In the case of my (and many others) neck the hair grows outward from the throat.

This means that I need to do a W-E on the left side and an E-W on the right to do an against the grain pass.

This is not easy and you will likely nick yourself. First off, this is easier (for me) with a smaller razor (I find a 5/8 easier than even a 6/8, but I'm still pretty new to this). Basically, what I do is lift my chin and pull the skin as tight and flat as possible and work my way across - first under the jaw, then down from there - you can hold the razor at a bit of an angle and I cross shave to do this (right hand to shave the left side and left hand to shave the right).

Someone has posted a video here that shows someone doing a great three-pass shave and if anyone knows what I'm talking about, they should feel free to post a link.

Hope this helps.

That helps--thanks. My beard grows the same way yours does. You're right about the angles; I just meant that they make it tough for me to find a position that lets me get all the corners and hollows without slicing myself.

I'd like to see that video if anyone knows where it is...

Thanks,
Josh

I find I get my closest neck shave with a 4/8 razor. I don't know why but when I use one on my neck BBS.

I think I am in the same boat when it comes to an angular face. It makes a sharp curve when I transition from my face to the underside of my chin, jaw etc. And when I lift up my chin and pull the skin on my neck it forms all kinds of hollows and valleys. It's hard to find flat surfaces fo put the razor and then it takes contortions to put it there.

--------Michael

Ofcourse there is overlap. Guys that don't use stones need to be able to remove metal too.

I use a sharp razor and go against the grain if I want a close shave on the neck. I usually just don't bother.

First, your first two weeks of shaving will probably be somewhat bloody until your face is used to shaving with a straight razor. The neck is a special problem due to the curves and hollows. I have to make sure the toe of the razor is honed sharp in order to get into that hollow over by the carotid artery. I have examined dozens of razors and even those straight from the factory are seldom honed out at the toe. Check it out with your RS magnifier. Do be careful around your neck.

Howard