Results 11 to 14 of 14
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12-09-2006, 03:23 AM #11
But it does sount to me like it's written with the expectation of one since it calls for a honing srtoke to be done the same as you would to hone the whole edge and simply add pressure to the heel.
Especially with the curved blades like my swayback W&B,
I think you have to learn not only the X motion, but the Rock & Roll as well. That's where you subtlely roll te edge from heel to tip throught each honing stroke. That will keep your edge the right shape over the long run.
X
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12-09-2006, 12:12 PM #12
Just to clarify my post that you don't use the x pattern, I was referring to the full pattern and not the proportional stroke. If you follow a true x pattern you'll hone all the blade (evenly in theory, which is why its so useful) and this technique would use the x stroke but only half of the subsequent pattern.
When I do this, which is very, very rare. I just do a half stroke on one side 5 times and then 5 on the other.
For the x pattern it'd be the top half of the x for the tip or v pattern and the bottom portion would be done with a ^ or lower half of the x. The whole point isn't to use the full x pattern. Or stated another way, don't hone the whole edge.
But I don't think its a big deal, your only correcting the bevel's linear symmetry.
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12-10-2006, 01:07 PM #13
Thanks guys - this has been very helpful.
I like the barber hones because I can use them dry (I know they will probably work better with some water or lather, but they do work well dry - but you have to watch for clogging).
The information from the barber's manual was what I thought instinctively - just modify the x-stroke to concentrate on either the heel or tip to keep things even or create a slight smile.
Sometimes I'll use a couple of circular passes to take a little more off of the heel or tip - as needed.
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12-16-2006, 11:13 AM #14
Good work! Whenever I use a barber hone dry I wipe it down with a wet cloth afterward as recommend on the directions that came with it.