Thread: Barber's Hones - Avoiding a Frown

I have the Norton, but couldn't resist buying some Barber's hones, so I bought some from Tilly and now have the following hones (while many of you may be familiar with these, I've included descriptions for those who aren't):

Little Devil (small, fast-cutting, coarse hone used to set an edge and lap other barber's hones)

Cusion Strop (nice long 6.5" med/coarse, fast-cutting hone that can be used to set an edge or be the next step after the Little Devil)

GEM (small, slower-cutting, medium grit hone)

Amalgamite (nice long, slower-cutting fine hone)

Lithide (small, slow-cutting very fine hone for final honing, refreshing an edge, bathroom touch-ups).

Now I know that most people around here like the larger stones (Norton, Belgian, etc.).

What attracted me to the barber's hones is the fact that they can be used dry and I just think they're fun to use.

Now, after this long preamble, those of you who use Barber's hones, what are your tips to avoid developing a frown or underhoning the tip of the razor on a narrower hone?

Thanks guys - any other info on using barber's hones would be also appreciated, but I do know there's been lots posted on the board about them.

My tip is to just use them for quick touchups. A full honing on a barber hone would be a huge hassle. Possible but not worth the time if you already own a Norton.

I use the x pattern. I guess I should clarify that I consider that a solution. Are you sure your worried about underhoning the tip? If I had a worry (which I don't) I worry about the heel not the tip. This makes me curious about your stroke.

I've got a couple of barber hones, and have been known to do a full honing on my dubl duck hone. Underhoning the tip is *not* a problem.

I don't actually use mine dry (except for my "The King" hone which specifically recommends this). I use lather and it seems to make for a much better edge and much better hone feel. If you're worried about a frown then you can hone the heel, toe, and middle separately. Or just put a little more pressure on the heel and toe for everything but the last few laps.

Barber hones are all I use. I use a Little Devil (great hone by the way) and a Reliance combination hone. Both American Hone Company hones. (really too bad they are no longer made).

To avoid the dreaded razor frown I use the technique taught in barber manuals. At least it is taught in one of my older books from the 1930's. They refer to it as "advanced honing."

It basically says to hone the point for about 4 strokes using medium pressure, then hone the heel 4 strokes, then do a few strokes lightly on the entire blade (actually the center). All the time keeping the blade flat against the hone as usual, of course. Using X pattern too.

In practice you just focus more pressure at point and heel keeping razor flat.

Everytime I hone my razor(s) I go through this routine.

Keeps my razor happy.

Scott

And, just in case anyone wants to know, here is the actual wording, in full, from the book, Standard Textbook of Barbering (and it's 1950 - sorry) page 22:

"Honing Technique for the Advanced Student -

After a student has learned to hone a razor evenly and has mastered the honing motions and strokes, he may direct his attention to the method of maintaining the correct "curve" on the cutting edge. A perfect cutting edge should have it's highest point at the center of the edge and should slope very slightly from the center to the point and heel of the edge. If the center of the edge is the low point and the point and heel are the high points on the edge, then the patron will complain of the razor "pulling."

The average barber has a tendency to hollow out the cutting edge of his razor, due to the fact that as he takes the honing stroke he instinctively exerts pressure along the center portion of the cutting edge, and unless this tendency is corrected the edge will soon take on the shape illustrated [shows drawing of a razor with a "frown"].

To fashion and maintain the correct "curve" on the cutting edge of the razor:

Lay the razor flat on the hone, making sure that the edge and heel of the razor are flat on the hone surface. Take four short honing strokes with pressure exerted at the heel of the razor. Shift the position of the razor on the hone so that the edge and point of the razor are flat on the hone surface. Take four short honing strokes with pressure exerted at the point of the razor. Shift the position of the razor on the hone so that the center portion of the razor lies flat on the hone surface. Take several light strokes with little or no pressure.

It is easily understood that more of the razor edge is honed at the heel and at the point of the edge than is honed at the center portion, which develops the desired "curve."

I know that some of you may already be familiar with these instructions, but for those of you who are not, I hope this helps you.

Scott

Originally Posted by honedright

Lay the razor flat on the hone, making sure that the edge and heel of the razor are flat on the hone surface. Take four short honing strokes with pressure exerted at the heel of the razor. Shift the position of the razor on the hone so that the edge and point of the razor are flat on the hone surface. Take four short honing strokes with pressure exerted at the point of the razor. Shift the position of the razor on the hone so that the center portion of the razor lies flat on the hone surface. Take several light strokes with little or no pressure.

Scott, do I understand this to mean no X-pattern?

Not during this correction honing. At most other times yes (according to the barber text in the help files). At this point your trying to focus your "extra" honing to wear out the portion that is "too wide".

When I do this I maintain the same angle and striation direction as I do with my regular honing, so it appears just like an x pattern, although more like half the stroke.

Originally Posted by dylandog

Scott, do I understand this to mean no X-pattern?

This is all directly fron the text. It doesn't say to use or not use the X patern in this particular section. But the section does start out by talking about a student mastering the honing strokes and motions meaning the X pattern.

I don't think they would expect a student to all of a sudden abandon those honing motions here.

So I think this "advanced" technique would include the X pattern. Like Alan says, I think it is a shorter stroke (and the text says this as well) but I think it is still the X pattern in form.

Scott

I also want to add this: obviously the advantage that barber students had is they not only had the texts, but also an experienced barber, or master barber, to confirm exactly what the texts were teaching.

We are left to interpret, as best as we can, the written instructions. Sometimes they are very clear. Other times they are a little vague.

Scott