Thread: Setting the Bevel/ Using Coarser Stones Question

You can set the bevel w/a 4k and slurry, it just takes a bit longer. The 1k just expidites the process making it slightly quicker. You can reset the bevel on a razor that already has one; it won't hurt it too much (except for a little metal off of the spine if you don't tape!). So being the veteran honemeister that I am, I always say "when it doubt, set the bevel"...


Oh btw I'm totally a honing noob so don't listen to me!! You will, however, get some great advice on this site!!

Originally Posted by jpcwon

You can set the bevel w/a 4k and slurry, it just takes a bit longer. The 1k just expidites the process making it slightly quicker.

A bit of an understatement here - I've had wedges that would take 2 weeks to set a bevel on a 4k...

have had blades that I have used my DMT 325 to get the bevel started,bear in mind, these are damaged blades,major chips etc.Have to use what you need to use.

Hope this helps. I just ask the same question with my out of the box razors. I re-did my razor bevels because i didn't know if they were set with or without tape? Used the Norton 1k. After that I use the 8k and the 12k to touch up my edges. I also use a chromium pad once a week then strop to keep my blades nicely sharp.

It did take me a few tries to get the bevel set were it would cut hair off my arms, after I mastered that step it was very easy to use all the stones.

I lapped all my stones before I used them. I used the norton 220/1k 4k/8k and the 12k Japanese stone.

My razors are wicked sharp and it's so nice to shave with my rotations.

I have found that sometimes a 2k or 3k cermic stone sets a good bevel if you feel that the 1k is a bit overdoing it. I also have a BBW that will touch up the bevel on an existing shaver. That is one that has been a good shaver in the past.

I've never found a "burr" on any of my edges and doubt it is a goal to attempt to achieve.

ok its been some time but i have messed around alot and this is what i can say about this. just for maintaining a normally used prehoned bevel set blade a 8k and above is what you should need. you can put a really good shving egde with a 8k and a strop. maybe not the most comfy but you can do it. the 12k really helps make the blade alot smoother. a 4k does realy nice set up work after a 1k. i have a 220/1k that i have used and a 1k 4k,8k,12k, balsa with paste and two different strops. i would say if you are not doing any major work on them an 8k,12k and a strop is just great for an average shaver. please also take in mind this is just my 2 cents.

When putting a bevel on a steel blade, it is very difficult to avoid creating a bur. You may not notice it, but it's present. The polishing process usually removes it. The occasional harsh edge is sometimes the result of a bur or the jagged edge left after a bur has broken off.

Originally Posted by JeffR

When putting a bevel on a steel blade, it is very difficult to avoid creating a bur. You may not notice it, but it's present. .

Yeah,,, gotta disagree there, sorry,,, with all three points

It is not difficult to avoid it, it is not there even under high magnification if done correctly, and polishing doesn't remove it if it was never there..

I agree with your final point, but that would be the exact reason to never create a burr on a razor edge...


Please do not confuse a burr with the rough jaggedness of a non-complete bevel set...


Creating a burr is just not a desirable way to form a bevel on a razors edge,, Please before you disagree think it through for a second, "What is the difference between a rough edge of a preformed bevel and the rough edge after the burr drops away" You will still need to carefully bring the edge to a fine point and then smooth it out for comfort..

Come to think of it, I recall seeing a razor being dragged across the edge of a stone in a video by gssixgun. That was for the purpuse of... polishing?

Large burs or small, they get formed when steel is ground on any knife edge.

Repeat after me, kids: "A razor is just a knife."

Jeff