Thread: Trying to Hone

As paradoxical as it may seem, it is possible for a blade to be less effective at cutting arm hair as it progresses from the 4K stone to the 8K stone. Your bevel/edge may have been deficient at the 4K level, but because the 4K stone is somewhat rougher than the 8K, the roughness of the resulting edge coming off the 4K stone may have been cutting the arm hairs, not the actual sharpness of the edge. I've seen a 1K edge cut hanging hairs and not be able to do the same at 4K. I would first establish (through observation with a 5X loupe and bright light) whether you do in fact have a proper bevel and proceed from there. A 4K edge under magnification exhibits mini-serrations that the 8K stone eliminates, making it seem less sharp when it actually is sharper although smoother.

Originally Posted by Moderndandy

X strokes no pressure. About 6 to 8.

you will not get improvement from 4k by doing 8 x-strokes on 8k. Try 20 and test, if needed add 10 more and test again. If you see improvement but still the edge is not quite there keep doing sets of 10 and test till you are satisfied.

I concur with mainaman. After setting the bevel on the Norton 4k, I put the razor through a pyramid progression starting with 25 x strokes on the 8k. I don't test the edge until I complete the progression, strop the razor, and shave. Once your bevel is set you need to trust what your doing, and you will see the results when you shave. Also, there really is no such thing as "no pressure." As long as you have the blade on the stone, there is some amount of pressure. You need to have some, maybe minimal, pressure applied to keep the blade true on the stone, with any torque applied to the edge as you make your stroke. Keep at it. You can only figure it out by doing it. Good luck!

Thanks Everybody For your help.
I'm determined to get it now that I've started.
I want to be self sufficient.

It's bringing out the Good American in me.

Ink & Magnification. One of the most frustrating things about honing is not being able to see what is happening at the edge while the razor is on the stone. So try to “see” as much as you can. Eventually you will not need to see and learn to feel. Ink (Red or Blue will jump out at you) & Magnification are your answer.

So first, see where you are at. Invest in a magnifier, I like the Radio Shack 60/100 power for around $15.00, but any magnification will help.

Look at the edge straight on, edge facing directly at you under magnification and strong light. Any shiny spots you see are areas that are not sharp. You may have damaged the edge while stropping. It only takes a second of inattention to damage a perfect edge, with paste even easier. It happens to all of us.

1. As Ace said, make sure you are really sharp at 4 k or whatever you are setting the bevel at. You may need to go to a 1K to repair a damaged edge. Just because it was pro honed does not mean it has not been damaged.

Ink the bevel and hone at 4k and make sure you are making full contact on the entire bevel and have truly established a proper bevel and that it is sharp. (Both bevels are flat and meet at a point, no shiny spots). 1-2 laps should remove all the ink from the bevel, especially at the edge.

2. Ink and proceed to the 8k make sure the 8k is smooth, free of imperfection and prepared to cut. Some stones glaze quickly, prep with a DMT or rubbing stone.

3. Examine the bevel at 8k ensure you are making full contact. 1-2 laps should remove all the ink from the bevel.

4. Hair test for sharpness are very subjective and only testing the portion of the blade that is cutting that hair. I am baffled at how a 60-120k CBN edge will not tree top arm hair, yet shave like a dream. Probably something to do with the tooth of the edge at lower girts and my arm hair. Bottom line, I am not honing to cut arm hair, only shaving counts.

5. Experiment with pressure, start with more, end with less. Pressure is something you will have to learn by experience. Circles are for removing metal and getting to sharp, finish with full strokes at each grit, to even out and polish the edge. Bevel setting is for establishing the bevels and getting to sharp, subsequent stones are for polishing …the edge.

Go slow and systematic (repeatable) in your quest.

Ink and magnification, I will do that
Thanks.

You can try a high grit stone for a touch up. If you do not achieve the desired results, then determine the problem or just start over and bevel set. Re-setting, usually is the easiest and best solution.

One of the other benefits of the Sharpie is, lightly dragging the Sharpie tip along the length of the edge, you can feel the smoothness of the edge as it glides along. The smallest micro-chip will snag the sharpie revealing the location of the chip. Mark the bevel to quickly locate the area and ensure its removal.

This marking method will also quickly mark both sides of the edge at the same time to determine if the edge was taped at prior honing or if the stone is making contact at the edge, which is all that really counts. If the razor was taped the stone will not remove ink at the edge in a couple of passes

When using the Radio Shack scope, do not apply pressure on the scope, imbedding the edge into the plastic scope. If not careful you can chip the edge with the scope. If you hear a “tink” when you pull the scope off… you may have just chipped the edge.

I glued a small piece of foam (1mm) to the scope base and cut out the lens hole with an Exacto knife. This helps greatly, but you still need to exercise care.

That "tink" can be hart breaking.

I use the scope base when looking at the bevel not the edge. When I want to look at the edge, I take the base off but don't adjust the focus. You have to hold the razor below the scope to focus on the edge. This way will make it almost impossible to damage the edge.

Your foam idea sounds like a good one.

Jonathan

Search the term "JaNorton" I think you might be surprised at the wealth of information in one thread about the Infamous Norton 4/8


here

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...on-2012-a.html