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  1. #11
    Electric Razor Aficionado
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshearl View Post
    I think suzuki's right that you can't make a hone coarser, because the abrasive remains the same regardless of how rough the surface feels. I just worry about using a shave-ready blade on a surface that's rougher than my 4K Norton.
    Yup, at the scale we're talking about the razor will glide across the high points and the abrasives there will do the job. My hard arkansas stone feels much smoother than my 4k norton even though it's much coarser grit abrasive.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Bobbo's Avatar
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    I didn't lap my lithide. Didn't see the point. These things come ready to use. I'm of the opinion that people do way too much damage to their hones and strops by lapping and putting gunk on them respectively. Don't mend something that isn't broken is my view.

    I did do some test passes with an old razor to see if there were any dust grains or other stuff stuck to it before I took my best shaving blade to it though.

    The hone is very uniform in colour and looks like jet back slate. Its very smooth.

    I think the idea of lapping with another lithide is a good one though as the last thing you want is particles of 1000 grit sand embedded in the surface. The abrasiveness and fineness of finish shouldn't change after lapping however, but if the surface is rough due to scratch marks from sand paper a delicate edge could snag on its way across the hone.

    My tuppence worth.

  3. #13
    < Banned User > suzuki's Avatar
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    Mine was relatively flat, but had some imperfections (small bumps, etc. that would have definitely interfered with honing).

    The comment about the grit is definitely on the money. I used a diamond hone, which is much less likely to leave any grit behind - nonetheless, I still gave the lithide a good rubdown with a scotchbrite pad to make sure. This is something to be careful about any time you lap one stone/hone with a coarser material (be it sandpaper or another stone).

    I'm going to run a practice razor over my lithide for several laps to see how that changes the surface - it might bring back the even finish. That being said, I've used it a few times and am happy with the results. I find that, as with everything else, different razors respond differently to different types of sharpening media.

  4. #14
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    I just gave mine a lap so it's ready to use, but I have a couple of projects and an experiment to finish before I can play with it. Arrrgghhh I've got too may toys

  5. #15
    Member entropy's Avatar
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    I have a Tilly lithide as well, and I like it a lot. It has become my "go to" touch up hone. As for lapping it, I use a 325-grit DMT continuous diamond plate (the D8C), followed by a rubdown with a scotchbrite pad, and it works famously. That lithide is dead flat and works like a champ!

  6. #16
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    I've got a hone test and 9 shave-tests to perform before I can give the lithide a trial run as a fine finisher. How many strokes do you give your average singer coming off the 8k and how often do you scrub the hone?

  7. #17
    Member entropy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FiReSTaRT View Post
    I've got a hone test and 9 shave-tests to perform before I can give the lithide a trial run as a fine finisher. How many strokes do you give your average singer coming off the 8k and how often do you scrub the hone?
    Not that I'm the reference test case by any means, but... I go with 5-8 gentle strokes on the lithide, and I generally scrub it down every other use with a scotchbrite pad. What I find challenging about the lithide is that it's dark surface makes it hard to easily see swarf/residue... If the edge needs more than 5-8 strokes on the lithide, I switch over to a 16K Shapton for 5-10. I've only had to lap it once thus far - I think it's narrow width sort of inherently helps sustain flatness over time.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Bobbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by entropy View Post
    If the edge needs more than 5-8 strokes on the lithide, I switch over to a 16K Shapton for 5-10. I've only had to lap it once thus far - I think it's narrow width sort of inherently helps sustain flatness over time.
    Are you saying that you regard the lithide as a finer hone than the shapton 16K ?

    Any ideas what grit the lithide is? What is it made from, i'm assuming it is not a natural stone.....

  9. #19
    Member entropy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobbo View Post
    Are you saying that you regard the lithide as a finer hone than the shapton 16K ?

    Any ideas what grit the lithide is? What is it made from, i'm assuming it is not a natural stone.....
    I actually have no idea what the grit rating is on the lithide. I presume it's very likely coarser than the 16K, but for reasons beyond my level of technical expertise, it seems to cut much more slowly.

  10. #20
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I am wondering why a coarser hone (in general, and Lithide in particular) would be used after 16K grit work?

    Does it feel better on the face after 16K + Lithide than after only 16K?

    Cheers
    Ivo

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