Thread: X pattern needed on 3" stones?

Hey everyone,

So I was thinking that since our razor blades are all about 3" long, and many of the stones we used to hone are are maybe 2" wide, that the X pattern is needed to hone the entire edge of the razor. But what about on Norton stones that are already 3" wide. Do you still need to do the X-pattern since the whole edge of the razor stays on the stone? If I do an X pattern, won't the heel of the razor see less stone time than the rest of the edge, and eventually the toe and middle will wear out thinner than the heel?

In other words - if I have a 3" wide stone, can I just do a regular back and forth motion when honing, or is the X-pattern ALWAYS the way to go. And if so, can someone explain WHY we to do it this way?

If the stone (needs lapping) or the blade (warped) is a bit uneven X helps every part of the blade contact the surface of the hone. With that being said, it's not ABSOLUTELY necessary, but I like to finish with it anyways as it also gives me more precise control once you get into the negative pressure honing.

negative pressure honing - you mean honing with less and less pressure?

Yeah, up to the point where you're almost trying to separate the blade from the stone and the water is holding it down. FAIK that could really be happening, but the main thing is that it's my mind set when I'm finishing an edge.

most of my hones are larger 2 3/4 or 3 inch ones. the answer is yes you can do the straight across honing with them, they do not need X patterns.


HOWEVER, i have found that i get much better results with X patterns and now i always use X patterns. you will find alot of blades are slightly warped or uneven spines etc etc and that if you only go straight across the entire blade does not get evenly sharp. i was ending up having different spots of the blade, heel or toe or middle sharp and one of the other parts not sharp enough. i couldn't fix this without over honing the already keen part.

The answer to this is the X pattern. it allows you to apply even amount of pressure over the entire length of the area you are honing becuase of the X motion which hones the part by the edge of the stone as you move. you can compensate for uneven spines etc etc becuase not all of the spine is touchin the hone and that allows you to change the angle/pressure.

in conclusion, you can do straight honing with 3 inch hones. however if your blade is slightly off perfect then some point of it won't get even amount of honing and will be less sharp then other parts in persistant contact with the hone. X pattern fixes this.

~J

Originally Posted by fredvs79

If I do an X pattern, won't the heel of the razor see less stone time than the rest of the edge, and eventually the toe and middle will wear out thinner than the heel?

Get that thought out of your head right away. The heel is close to your honing hand so the (minute) pressure exerted in the blade is greater on the heel than the tip. The X pettern is a way to mitigate that discrepancy and get the whole blade honed evenly.

I don't really use that honing method. I use the Rolling hone more where the main point of pressure contact ith the hon gradually and evenly travels up the edge from heel to tip throughout the honing stroke. I do take the very heel off teh hone though so I guess I'm using a kind of hybrid mothin.

Hey! Did I just invent a new honing term? Hybrid Honing?

X

Could be but I know what you mean. I actually go straight across with emphasis on the heel about half-way down the hone and then start heading down. Strange, but it works and creates an even bevel.

Originally Posted by xman

I use the Rolling hone more where the main point of pressure contact ith the hon gradually and evenly travels up the edge from heel to tip throughout the honing stroke. I do take the very heel off teh hone though so I guess I'm using a kind of hybrid mothin.X

X, this only works for a smiley right? You can't 'rock' or 'roll' a perfectly flat-faced blade, can you?

I am definitely no expert here - but the barber guides referred to in the Help section state that a diagonal draw produces microteeth with a "cutting edge and is a very important factor in increasing cutting quality" The picture clearly shows a stone which is much wider than the length of the blade. It is also recommended to slightly lead with the heel.

Again, I am barely beyond the research stage, but this is what the book says. perhaps modern stones negate these principles?

It may also be of interest that the same Standardized textbook refers to the slight smiley face as "advanced" and advantageous for a smooth and pull free shave.

Bill

Originally Posted by dylandog

X, this only works for a smiley right? You can't 'rock' or 'roll' a perfectly flat-faced blade, can you?

I usually do. They don't actually move and the sensation is extremely subtle on a flat blade, but there is still a gentle pressure change along the edge as it progresses along the hone. I mean very subtle. I was forced to do it this way becasue the tips of my razors weren't getting keened well enough and every time I tried the X motion off the hone, the edge of the stone would tear off my edge. That's just my bad technique with that method. I suppose I could force myself to get the X motion honing right, but I'm getting great results now. It it ain't broke ...

X