Thread: When to revert to 1K while honing?

The whole hone will need to be lapped flat and you can chamfer the edges if you want.

To be honest, I used to assess the edge to see where I might start in the honing progression. In the last couple of years, though, I just go straight to the 1K and reset the bevel, needed or not. It may not be the recommended approach for everyone, but I find the worse that happens is that I go over ground I didn't need to and waste maybe 5 minutes. On the flip side, doing it this way sets or resets the bevel and fixes any potential issues that were there without all the faffing about.

James.

YES set that bevel 1st!!! Then and only then blokes, will the world be your oaster!!!!


With tongue firmly in cheek, I still am


tinkersd

Originally Posted by Castel33

The whole hone will need to be lapped flat and you can chamfer the edges if you want.

In fact your 4/8k should have had the treatment also.
You did say a "nice" eBay razor but we don't know if you were being sarcastic or if it's a shiny "restored" razor with a destroyed bevel. It could need a lot of work on a 1k depending on rust & chips etc. You may be into edge restoration territory rather than honing for all we know. Really suggest some magnification to see what's going on & tell us what you see.

Originally Posted by Jimbo

To be honest, I used to assess the edge to see where I might start in the honing progression. In the last couple of years, though, I just go straight to the 1K and reset the bevel, needed or not. It may not be the recommended approach for everyone, but I find the worse that happens is that I go over ground I didn't need to and waste maybe 5 minutes. On the flip side, doing it this way sets or resets the bevel and fixes any potential issues that were there without all the faffing about.

James.

No harm no foul, I suppose, but my motto is:

Remove no steel before its time.

Yeah ace I used to think that too, but time and perhaps laziness lead me to the dark side.

By the way, I am your father.



James

Originally Posted by gearhead222

.Don't know how to use a Sharpie and would appreciate any additional information using a marker.

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Using a Sharpie Marker goes something like this. Blacken both sides of your bevel with the marker. Just the bevel please. Then on a dry and flat lapped 1k, do two or three light strokes on the lapped stone. Now check your bevel with your loupe. If there is any black anywhere on the bevel, your bevel is not set.

Re-black the bevel and proceed to set the bevel with water on the stone. Do 10 to 20 strokes and then check your progress with the loupe. Re-black and continue until you can see no black on the bevel. Then do 10 light strokes on the 1k to make sure the bevel is set.

Then proceed to the 3k, 4k or 5k and on to the 8k and finish. If you need more explanation, PM me. Incidentally, I agree with Jimbo about setting a fresh bevel every time. Your shaves will be better in the long run.

Jerry
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Dear mrsell63 and fellow members-Sorry that I did not get back to you sooner. Watched Speedsters and Gssixguns Norton 4K/8K video during a slow spell at work today and it motivated me to return to the Norton 4K/8K. The mentioned razor in this post IS a nice razor. I have been very lucky finding retired barbers razors, restored razors from Sham and honeready or close to shave ready razors off of EBay Only bought one dog and it went back to the seller!-Gearhead

It's worth mentioning that the bevel doesn't need to be even, although an even bevel does look nice. A good bevel can be uneven and it can be wide. You probably don't WANT an uneven wide bevel, but it happens. My De Pews is slightly warped and had several uneven bevels when I got it. Now it's slightly warped with one uneven bevel, but it's a nice razor and it shaves nice.

Counting strokes is good for me as it controls me and allows me to analyse the result. I think it also may be good for beginners. At times (before I got more precise) I ended with a thought of 'I honed it for a bit and did lots of circles and some other strokes and stuff and stuff and now it shaves good'. That's a bit hard to repeat. Now I actually keep a honing journal so (a) I can advise others with more of an specific idea of what worked for me, (b) repeat for my own use if needed, and (c) work out what works for me and what doesn't.

I go to 1k if any of these is true:

• I look at the edge under a good light, and if I see any small nicks or bright reflections on the cutting edge.
• The edge doesn't pass the black marker and thumbnail test simultaneously.
• If I get the smallest suspicion that I should...