Thread: Frustrated with 1K bevel

Glen,

You took the Pic word right out of my mouth!!! I'd gone back to this post to write the 'P' word! hehehe

Dear Glen-As you mentioned, the razor DOES have a good edge-just not as sharp as i would like. It takes more than one pass to cleanly take arm hair off down to the skin. It will shave my face, but requires several passes and too much pressure, which caused too many nicks last time. This was with a good quality shaving soap, Boars hair brush and shaving oil. Was going to try honing again last night, but my Norton 8K required some serious lapping, and which will be lapped again tonight.
I do have a digital camera, but don't know if it can take detailed enough pics. Gotta figure out how to post a pic also. At work now, but again appreciate everyones help-Gearhead

Originally Posted by cudarunner

Glen,

You took the Pic word right out of my mouth!!! I'd gone back to this post to write the 'P' word! hehehe

Roy could ya see me sitting at the Puter doing this

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Roy could ya see me sitting at the Puter doing this

hehehe

I won’t hijack this important tread! I’ll talk to you later my friend!

Pictures would be most helpful! Also I’m wondering what type of grind it is! That can make a huge difference on how to proceed!

The ‘tape’ question is in there and you and I know that it’s a matter of choice! However, I’ve found it very handy with a spine that’s got a lot of wear on it and also with near wedges. For example the razor that’s on it way home across the big pond responded very well with three layers of tape.


With that said, I always use tape as I don’t want to lose any more metal than I have to!!!

Again, pictures would be most helpful!

Will see if I can take some pics and post. Does 1-3 layers of tape change the angle of the bevel enough that it can shorten honing time? Are you , in essence, starting from square one again with creating a new bevel? Are these questions feasable, or are there just too many variables to provide an answer? Never honed with tape before, but being a newbie, I'm open to anything with this razor-Gearhead

Originally Posted by gearhead222

Will see if I can take some pics and post. Does 1-3 layers of tape change the angle of the bevel enough that it can shorten honing time? Are you , in essence, starting from square one again with creating a new bevel? Are these questions feasable, or are there just too many variables to provide an answer? Never honed with tape before, but being a newbie, I'm open to anything with this razor-Gearhead

Get the pictures posted! I know that it takes awhile to figure out how, but by posting them they will help you immensely by allowing those such as GSSIXGUN to help guide you!

When my friend Glen speaks, I always listen and I listen very closely as he's never ever steered me wrong!!

I noticed you mentioned the thumbnail test, please dont do this if you are, you are dulling the edge. Pics would be very nice. I am wondering if you have a frown.

Dear cudarunner-Won't be getting off of work until 2300, and really want to lap flat my Norton 8K, so no pics tonight Nun2sharp, been using the TNT for just the 1K, as I was told that it dulls the blade past this step-Gearhead

Originally Posted by gearhead222

. . . -Dear ACE and cpcohen1945, if I understand both of you correctly, am I supposed to have an edge that is THIN as possible that does NOT reflect light? With this particular razor, the edge is at least 2mm wide on either side and is indeed shiny. Some of my razors shave fine and have only a visible edge on one side though.Please explain, as I am totally out in left field

Let's see if I can clarify:

What you have is two _bevel surfaces_. Where they meet -- that's the _edge_.

The width of the bevel surface is determined by the thickness of the blade, and the bevel angle. A 2mm bevel sounds kind of wide, but if the blade is thick (e.g., a near-wedge), it could happen.

You will always see light reflect off the bevel surface -- if well-honed, it will look like a slightly matte mirror. If you use CrOxide paste, you can get it nice and shiny. It doesn't determine the quality of the shave.

Go out into sunlight, put the sun at your back. Hold the blade with the edge up, facing you, and pointed toward the sun -- the spine will be away from the sun. Now, you're looking at the edge.

. . . If you see sunlight reflecting off the edge (not off the bevels sides), the razor isn't sharp.

You can do the same test with any point-source of light, but sunlight makes things pretty obvious. A dull edge glints in the sun; a sharp edge is invisible. When somebody talks about the edge "cutting light", he's talking about that test.

. Charles

Dear Charles-Thanx for a great explanation! Will definitely take advantage of that light source, although a bright desk lamp tells me that the edge is not excessively dull-just not as sharp as I would like. Some of my razors pass the HHT and some don't-this one doesn't
Finally got the 8K properly lapped by putting it in the sink and using Gssixgguns technique. Wondering if my Norton 1K needs more lapping, as it seems to be really rough and not cutting as well as my 4K and especially the 8K! Tried honing another razor on the 1K and did not seem to be making any progress, so I jumped up to the 4K and then the 8K and was able to shave arm hair! Mind you, I began honing using just the Norton 4K and 8K, so maybe the 1K needs more lapping. These Norton stones sure need prepping to work right, that is for certain! Glad I took the members advice and bought a DMT 325. The Norton lapping stone pales by comparison-Gearhead