Thread: Kamisuri question

So what you guys are telling me is that the rough section in the middle of the un stamped side of the blade should run the whole way through from heal to toe and the hone should only touch the shoulder and the bevel on the blade?when I got it it looked as if someone had just started to hone it and then stopped,ok the blade must be a little warped or something and I thought it was going ok,would a pic from the front of the blade be helpful to show the shape of it? And on the back with the stamps should I keep honing the shoulder down until the hone hits the blade all the way along? Thanks .

Originally Posted by thebigG

So what you guys are telling me is that the rough section in the middle of the un stamped side of the blade should run the whole way through from heal to toe and the hone should only touch the shoulder and the bevel on the blade?when I got it it looked as if someone had just started to hone it and then stopped,ok the blade must be a little warped or something and I thought it was going ok,would a pic from the front of the blade be helpful to show the shape of it? And on the back with the stamps should I keep honing the shoulder down until the hone hits the blade all the way along? Thanks .

You got it all right!

OK here are a couple more shots of the kamisori and a pic i
drew of what it looks like in green and the blue line is how it should look? just want to make sure befor i start the process thank guys.

Originally Posted by Lemur

At first I tried the traditional way for Jap. tools, with a scraper, didn't work, the steel was to hard.

Actually the omote side non stamped is usually iron & very soft.

I really hope the razor was not new as it now has really excessive hone wear like a well worn vintage. Way too much pressure which should have been directed at the edge not the whole blade face. Hopefully you can recreate the hollow & direct your fingertip pressure to the edge only.

Seeing there is no contact in the middle of edge, if the pattern is reversed on the Ura (stamped side) the blade may be warped but possibly is where your pressure was greatest.

I know Jknives can be straightened if warped but a 2" blade may be more likely to crack.

Oz I am really confused with why the scratches are running long ways and not Spine to Edge, I really wonder what happened with this razor..
The whole thing strikes me as odd


Thinking more it almost looks like somebody tried get rid of the asymmetrical grind

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Oz I am really confused with why the scratches are running long ways and not Spine to Edge, I really wonder what happened with this razor..
The whole thing strikes me as odd


Thinking more it almost looks like somebody tried get rid of the asymmetrical grind

G, the Ura (back or stamped side) is always finished with long ways scratches but someone has already tried restoring the front (omote) so the original spine to edge marks are gone. Good eye. I didn't pick that. Means it was not a new razor.

Here are the pics as from the listing and as i got it,it was not a new razor and was not represented as one.Being my first Kamisori it comes down to not having enough knowledge of these blades but i hope i can reshape it and get it shaving ,live and learn.Would a bit of tape along the shoulder of the front of the blade help me to get a better angle on the bevel and stop the hone touching the face of the blade? I did watch the vids before i started to hone so i was just putting pressure on the bevel and not the shoulder as much as possibe.I will try the tips the guys have suggested for hollowing the face out befor i go any further thanks again for all the great help.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

G, the Ura (back or stamped side) is always finished with long ways scratches but someone has already tried restoring the front (omote) so the original spine to edge marks are gone. Good eye. I didn't pick that. Means it was not a new razor.

Yeah I was at first thinking bad honing but bad honing would go spine to edge maybe a slight angle, but those scratches are lengthwise,

TheBigG: take what Oz and I are talking about with a grain of salt, approach whatever you are going to do slowly and with much thought, we are going by pics trying to figure out "Why".. If the razor was in hand we might be thinking way differently because we could touch and feel too, also running the edge on a hone tells us a ton more than just looking

If you successfully hollow the front & it's not warped you won't need tape. As a rule it's never used on these anyway.
One thing you could try is single finger pressure where there is no contact at the middle but be careful not to start a frown.

Ok so here is whats happened so far I did hollow out the front of the blade and reset the bevels the blade is slightly warped bowed a bit in towards the back of the blade.I can see how easy it would be to make a frown ,so i have got it shaving arm hair but i cant seem to get it to that scary sharpness that is needed i have done the 7 to 1 the 5 to 1 and finished on light strokes 3 to 1 on a thuri and charnley forest mirror polish on the blade any sugestions welcome.