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Thread: Combat Knives?
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04-05-2011, 10:22 AM #41
are your the wilkenson ones?
if so those are the bees knees !! i was reading up on them and apparently the newer ones arnt very combat user friendly as in they break under hard use.
I dont know its only what i have read others opinions are . but I do like the blade design and your sheath is very nice. could never make something like that.
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MickR (04-05-2011)
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04-05-2011, 10:40 AM #42
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Thanked: 983I wouldn't know if they are Wilkinson Sword manufactured or not. They are brought out by the British Ministry of Defense (MoD), so whoever they have contracted to do the job (or had contracted in 1993). I've used mine like an axe and done some seriously hard chopping into some seriously hard Australian hard wood and it seems to still be in one piece. It meets my high expectations anyway. Others may have higher expectations than me though.
The sheath design is definitely the most complex I've ever under taken, but I've made one other very similar. The one you see is the second addition with some changes. The third one that is cut out, but not yet assembled should be even better again. The inside is lined with kangaroo hide. The outer is bovine.
If I can make a sheath like that, anybody can. Just takes time and patience...some swearing...Blood...Sweat...And swearing...
Mick
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kruppstahl (11-26-2015)
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04-05-2011, 04:41 PM #43
in that time frame I think they would have been the Wilkinson made knives and you are a lucky guy to have them as they are sought after.
I am good at the swearing and the blood spilling bit.
so what type of edge do you keep on them? and what do you sharpen them with?
starting to think a 50 degree edge is the best for hard work knives and at that degree its best to strop.
but i may need to get my HAD on .. damn ! as if i already didnt have enough to spend money on...
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04-05-2011, 05:14 PM #44
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Thanked: 2591you guys hooked me up.
I have always liked a tanto style but never really researched a lot for what is out there.
I am getting the 8" Ka-Bar tanto.Stefan
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04-05-2011, 11:04 PM #45
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Thanked: 983I put a 30' V edge on my user knife and I use a Lansky sharpening system to do it. 50' would be a bit too steep for anything other than chopping, and I tend to like to be able to slice as well with it.
Mick
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04-06-2011, 06:17 AM #46
MickR,
I the UK, these knives are made by Nowill (and others ?)
John Nowill Knives: Survival Knife Black --- Heinnie Haynes - Knives, Pocket Tools and Accessories
http://www.heinnie.com/product.asp?s...StartRecord=13
Have fun !
Best regards
RussLast edited by PhatMan; 04-06-2011 at 06:20 AM.
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MickR (04-06-2011)
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04-06-2011, 11:23 PM #47
I have the lansky sharpening system and I find it pretty handy.
I have the 1000 grit stone as my finest. Do yOu think anything finer is needed?Shaving_story on Instagram
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04-07-2011, 05:05 AM #48
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Thanked: 21My thinking on a fixed blade knife is it should have a full tang, hardened enough to sharpen but not so hard it will break under stress, a non round handle(can't twist it if the handle is round), nonperishable grip material(no leather etc)
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04-07-2011, 05:33 AM #49
This Recon Tanto by Cold Steel I use outdoor.
Kitchen knifes and combat knives/outdoor knives should be sharp.
For honing I use a JNat.
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04-07-2011, 05:54 AM #50
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Thanked: 983I do have the blue sapphire polishing hone, but I only use that as a finish on my kitchen knives. I don't go any higher than the 1000 on my bush knives. So short answer, "No". In the end it is up to the individual and what suits you personally. When I'm in the field I only carry a smallish diamond hone (approx 1000 grit) for touching up the edge as needed. And if you really screw up and nick the edge, you can, given time, hone it out with the same hone. I limit what I carry in my pack when I'm out bush, and I try not to screw up...More than usual anyway.
Mick