Thread: Axes!

Thought I'd try doing a hand made handle for this old HB hatchet head I had. I had an old white oak stair stringer I salvaged from my old church when our company did some renovations on the front stage a few years ago. The treads, and stringers were all old clear boards and would have been thrown away. Most likely around 100 years old, so it's fair to say it's been well seasoned.

Used my old PS&W Co. drawknife, vintage Stanley spokeshave, and a vintage low angle spokeshave as well. Also used a 4 in hand rasp around the knob. Used the 2 spoke shaves to fit the head and wedged it with a piece of scrap Wenge wood I had. I rubbed in about 4-5 coats of BLO and will probably do more. Now I just need to make a leather mask and it's done. Another fun project, and am dying to do another. Really enjoyed this.

Forgot to say, I put another stupid edge on this one too. Nothing but oil stones and a bastard file to set the bevel. File, Lansky puck, 400/1000 grit pocket stone, finished with a barbers hone. Sharp enough to open up anyone not careful.

Love it brother

Man, your eye for detail always amazes me. All the features are spot-on, grain positioned as should be.
Nice!

Nice fit and grain direction.

If you want a full fawn foot,(angled cut heel), wait until you hang the head, then cut the angle on the heel, so you have a square end to pound on. Looks like you had plenty.

Be careful with high shoulder, the grain is short there and susceptible to breaking off as the back of the eye bites into the handle at the shoulder with each blow. A slight taper and lower shoulder or straight back is stronger, but the high shoulder looks cool, I like the look of a curved handle.

I fit with just wood wedges also, my axes will not be left in the weather. BLO and a dirty/oily rag will deepen the color & pop the grain. Nice work.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Nice fit and grain direction.

If you want a full fawn foot,(angled cut heel), wait until you hang the head, then cut the angle on the heel, so you have a square end to pound on. Looks like you had plenty.

Be careful with high shoulder, the grain is short there and susceptible to breaking off as the back of the eye bites into the handle at the shoulder with each blow. A slight taper and lower shoulder or straight back is stronger, but the high shoulder looks cool, I like the look of a curved handle.

I fit with just wood wedges also, my axes will not be left in the weather. BLO and a dirty/oily rag will deepen the color & pop the grain. Nice work.

Thanks for all this advice, and I will try and apply it on my next one. I've hung a few framing hammers in the past, along with some sledges and I think I understand what you're talking about when it comes to the high shoulders. I've had some hammers bust really easy pulling nails, and I believe it was from this very thing. my next hang I'm going to try keeping my eye section of the shaft closer to what these handles have. Make the point on the back less pointy.



I have my Norlund Hudson bay pattern that needs re-hafted and will probably do something very similar to that Vermont pattern.

As for the fawn foot, I think I'll try exactly as you said. Hang the axe, and shape the knob after....... So much fun!!! I have some Ash that will be perfect!!! Can't wait to start working on it.

I am not seeing how a curved handle would be stronger............

Originally Posted by 32t

I am not seeing how a curved handle would be stronger............

I'm use to swinging hammers, so I'm not a fan of curved handles. A few of the guys at work have their Stilettos with axe handles and I hate them. Plus, they come fat as hell which is strong, but feels like crap. Straight handles for me please. That's why I kept the curve on the one above to a minimum.

On a full sized axe, I'd say game on for a bit of a curve.

With the grain what I would call vertical in your handle why would the high shoulder be weaker?

Originally Posted by 32t

With the grain what I would call vertical in your handle why would the high shoulder be weaker?

I know with handles like this, it's all about locating the stress in the correct spot. The idea is to spread out the stress, just above where you're gripping, and not have it just bellow where the head is sitting. If the area just below where the head sits is thinner than any other part of the handle, she's going to break really quickly.

A good example of this is the old hickory shafted golf clubs. They're fitted almost identical to a hammer or axe. there's a shoulder where the club sits on, and then it gradually thins out narrower than where the head is sitting. Upon impact to the ball, the stressed isn't right at that connection, but is spread out in that thinner shaft area over a greater distance....

At least I think that's what's happening. Ask Mcbladescar, he learned all about this rehandling some old golf clubs.

Not sure if Euclid440 is referring to the shoulder at the rear or not but in setting the head on this one, I cracked the rear shoulder.