Thread: Hello and request for help

It was the cheapest Dovo I could find when I was on vacation in Munich this summer. Nice basic full hollow made of stainless. Can't tell if I'm honing too hard or too soft. Too long or too short.

Hi TC. Wish it as simple as needing more stones. I've got a bunch already -- 250, 1000, 5000, 8000, 15000. I think my problem is deeper -- more about my honing technique. I'm pretty good with the shaving technique. Not so much on the honing. Feel like the more I hone, the duller the razor gets. I've heard that beginners tend to oversharpen. maybe that's my problem.

Thanks Ed, that's helpful.

The most important part is setting the bevel. If it isn't set, then moving forward is waste of time.
My personal numbers for honing a Dovo are 1000 grit 40 circles with light pressure on both sides followed by 25 X strokes with light pressure. Follow that with the 5000 grit, 40 circles with light pressure on both sides, then 40 circles on both sides with no pressure, then 7 X strokes with no pressure. Follow that with 10 X strokes with no pressure on the 8000. Finally 10 X strokes with no pressure on the 15,000. Diamond paste and or CrOx if you desire.
Since no two razors are exactly alike the numbers may vary a little, but those will get you in the ball park.

Hey Cris --

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate the details. Your cycle sounds similar to Lynn's shown on youtube. Here's my problem with these instructions -- when you (and Lynn) talk about "light pressure" initially, what exactly does that mean. I think this is the hardest part to capture without being hands-on with a mentor. Would you (and others who are reading this) describe "light" like the pressure you would use if you were painting a coat of paint on the stone (most light, I would think)? Or a little harder, like spreading peanut butter on bread? Or more, like the pressure one might use in resealing the top of a gallon of paint tin? Or even harder, like the pressure of trying to scrape off rust from metal? Any other comparisons would be welcome in trying to get my pressure 'just right.' Also, please keep in mind that my bevel probably needs to be totally reset.

Thanks guys. This has been fun and informative so far. Have a nice Sunday.

For anyone that might be following this ... I experimented a bit more this morning. I think I may have identified the culprit. When I purchased my first lot of stones, I got them from a sushi knife specialty store in NY called Korin. They suggested I get a flattening stone. Not sure of the make, but it's pink, with teeth on one side and flat on the other. Says it's #100 (I assume 100 grit) on the side of the box and it also says "Fixing stone". Now that I'm paying closer attention to my whole process, I'm noticing that after flattening my 1000 grit wetstone with this pink stone, that there are scratch lines all over the 1000 grit stone. I'm assuming that could really wreck my beveling, no? Can anyone chime in here with their thoughts? If this "fixing stone" is the problem, what should I be using instead?

Again, thanks to everyone who has helped so far.

Best,

With the leveling stone. Have you checked it is actually level as many aren't. When lapping you shouldn't be using much pressure and using figure 8s. Is just shallow scratches on the surface it should not cause any problems but if deep yes. Also are you checking that the lapping stone isn't leaving grit behind on the 1k. When cris talks of no pressure that is weight of the blade only or less at final finishing. Light pressure is just that just a fraction of pressure to increase the friction. Remember that it is easy to flex the blade with too much pressure and that will cause problems later in honing. Hth a little. With Cris's reccomend routine for bevel setting do it once. If not there do it again. Repeat till there. The bevel is one of those things that is done when it's done.

Yes, the scratches are normal unless deep like eddy said. If they are small scratches then you're ok & it should make your hone level . When they are new, they don't come lapped so you have to do it yourself. Use very light pressure on it, the weight of the stone & the same applies to a blade. You don't want the blade to flex or you will have problems down the line trying to get it sharp all the way across the cutting edge.

For lapping stones I use a DMT 325 (it's a diamond covered plate). Sometimes I'll notice a scratch I missed on the stone and it is usually about 1/4 of a hair thickness. So it is very shallow. You can pick up a diamond plate at most home improvement stores for around $10. It might not last as long as a DMT, but then again, it might last you a lifetime.

For me, light honing pressure is the weight of my thumb. I put a 3/4" block under the hone and stand so my left thumb can lay across the blade and my left hand can follow it. The extra block keeps my left hand from cramping.
Heavy pressure is my thumb pressing down with maybe half a pound of force.
Unfortunately, a whole lot of the pressure thing has to be learned by feel and sound. When the bevel is set, the blade will smoothly go across the hone with even vibration and the sound will be consistent.

Thanks, Ed. I think I may have been using too much pressure on the lapping. And yes, I think the "fixing stone" was leaving behind grit. Thanks to cudarunner's good advice (and Cris below), I just ordered a DMT stone. Also -- good to know about the flex of the blade. I hadn't thought of that. Hearing a consensus here and elsewhere that less is more in terms of pressure. I think I've made the rookie mistake of trying to hard and pressing the edge off my blade. I'll keep trying.