Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 40
Like Tree30Likes

Thread: So I bought a razor ... or 10

  1. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    139
    Thanked: 13

    Default

    I find it strange how some guys spend an hour or more breaking slurry with naguras. I used to do the same thing. Then I became enlightened. Lol.

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    5,505
    Thanked: 2661

    Default

    Be careful on the Le Dandy, it looks like you are honing on the stabilizer, which may be keeping the heel half of the razor off the stone.

    A quick look with magnification or ink the edge and see if you are making Full contact with the stone.

    Simple heel correction will resolve this issue for you, there are post on how to correct a heel with a diamond plate.

    BTW, nice test razor, clean the blade with some 0000 steel wool and metal polish or you will be pasting your strop with rust and tarnish from the blade when you strop, rust is very abrasive.
    ppetresen likes this.

  3. #13
    Member Eurofighter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    51
    Thanked: 1

    Default

    I've tried my best not to touch the stabilizer, but I guess I'm behind the learning curve.
    I did ink the edge a couple of times, especially during bevel setting. There is a slight warp to it, but in the end my rolling strokes worked as I had an uniform bevel. Still waiting for that loupe.
    I did correct the heel on the Chabaz as it had a hook when I got it.
    I guess I have to redefine my ideas of rust. I did not consider this razor to be rusty. The black spots above "Le" I thought were pitting.

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    5,505
    Thanked: 2661

    Default

    Rust comes in many colors, not just red active rust. Once it is on your strop, it is a pasted strop, but you don’t know the grit size, and it is difficult to remove fully.

    Often when new honers have an issue it is because the bevels are not fully set. If the stabilizer is keeping half of the edge off the stone..,

    Correct the heel and move the corner of the edge forward of the stabilizer an eight to a quarter of an inch. See if that improves your edges.

  5. #15
    Member Eurofighter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    51
    Thanked: 1

    Default

    I see!
    This is the Chabaz with the corrected heel. Do you think I should grind further? (the black mark on the edge is just a shadow)

    Name:  Kc9T8FcQ.jpg
Views: 51
Size:  43.5 KB

  6. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    5,505
    Thanked: 2661

    Default

    You are right at the edge, the beginning of the stabilizer. Some colored ink on the spine and stabilizer will tell you quickly if you are riding on it.

    Two layers of electrical tape would probably give you enough clearance but a couple minutes on a diamond plate will make it a non-issue and give you a nice shaving heel.

    Use a quarter or fifty cent piece to reshape a genital curve then grind to that shape ahead of the stabilizer.

    Two layers of tape will also almost make up for the lost steel.

  7. #17
    Senior Member ppetresen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Cariboo, British Columbia
    Posts
    206
    Thanked: 56

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    Use a quarter or fifty cent piece to reshape a genital curve then grind to that shape ahead of the stabilizer.
    I do appreciate a nice genital curve.

  8. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ppetresen For This Useful Post:

    dinnermint (02-15-2019), RezDog (02-15-2019)

  9. #18
    Member Eurofighter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    51
    Thanked: 1

    Default

    If I decide to use tape, do I have to start from bevel setting?

  10. #19
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    5,505
    Thanked: 2661

    Default

    No, depending on the stone, you will put a mico-bevel or make a double bevel. It does not matter to the shave, all that matters is if the edge is fully honed.

    In addition to preventing further spine loss, it will increase the angle back close to where it was originally and making a stronger edge. If the edge gets too thin, it can micro-chip and feel rough.

    There is no down side to honing on tape, and with that razor or any razor with a lot of spine loss, it may be the only way to hone a razor and make an edge that will last and shave well.

    So, especially when learning to hone, always use tape. Once you have mastered honing, where you are only removing the minimum amount of steel needed to hone a razor, then you can stop using tape.

    By not taping that razor, you are adding another variable.

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:

    Eurofighter (02-11-2019)

  12. #20
    Gatling-Gun Jerry Gasman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Colorado springs
    Posts
    6,278
    Thanked: 1392

    Default

    Listen to Marty. He is givi g hou great info. And if you follow his instructions you will get this. In my opinion you need to take back that stabilizer some more. The edge should be 1/16 to an 1/8 lower than the stabilizer. This will help you when honing. You got a good start on it but take more.
    ppetresen likes this.
    It's just Sharpening, right?
    Jerry...

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •